Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lip Balm
Sandip B Borase*, Aniket Pralhad Patil, Dipali P Patil, Gayatri P Patil
Shree Sureshdada Jain Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research, Jamner, Maharashtra, India.
*Corresponding Author E-mail: sborase73@gmail.com
ABSTRACT:
The present study was conducted using ingredients that produce fewer adverse effects. Products designed to protect rather than enhance lips are known as lip emollients This study focuses on the formulation and evaluation of an herbal lip balm using natural ingredients such as beeswax, coconut oil, and extracts of tulsi, aloe vera, and beetroot. The aim was to develop a safe, effective, and eco-friendly alternative to commercial lip care products. The lip balm was prepared using the melting and pouring method, followed by various physicochemical evaluations including spread ability, pH, melting point, and stability tests. Additionally, antimicrobial activity and user acceptance were assessed. Results demonstrated that the herbal formulation possessed desirable characteristics and good user satisfaction, indicating its potential as a viable natural lip care product.
KEYWORDS: Beetroot, Beeswax, Almond oil, Castor oil, Natural, Lip balm.
The widespread use of hazardous engineered additives in cosmetic products has led to significant public concern regarding the use of natural ingredients.1 Since lips lack oil glands, it is crucial to provide them with additional moisture and protection throughout the day. Conventional lip balms often contain harmful substances such as petrolatum, synthetic waxes, alumina, paraben, hydrogenated oils, and artificial fragrances and colors. As users frequently ingest lip balm, this poses a substantial health concern. Cosmeceuticals are components with medicinal properties that offer topical benefits and protect against skin deterioration.2
The present study was conducted using ingredients that produce fewer adverse effects.3 Products designed to protect rather than enhance lips are known as lip emollients. These create an adherent, moisture-resistant layer of oily substances, typically without any coloring agents.4
Beetroots are consumed raw, processed into concentrates, juices, and frozen products, and used as a natural food coloring source. The pigment extracted from red beetroot is called "red beetroot." Betalains, in addition to being safe, natural food colorants, are gaining recognition for their potential health benefits, particularly their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.2 Beeswax, a natural substance secreted by female bees, is commonly used in cosmetics, especially lip balms. This highly moisturizing compound can help shield lips from harmful sun rays and has a pleasant aroma. Beeswax functions as a natural emulsifier.5 Vitamin E, an antioxidant and excellent conditioner, helps maintain the soft, youthful texture of lips by reducing signs of aging6 Almond oil goes deep into the tissue of skin and the fatty acids possess the ability to hydrate the lips. The anti-inflammation effects of almond oil relieve the redness and pain of tattered lips or those which are sunburnt.7 Sesame oil can be applied to moisturize and soothe the lips, as well as provide anti-inflammatory benefits for lip care.8
1.1 Lip Structure:
The lips are composed of five primary regions: the vermilion/white roll, subvermilion, peristomal area, philtral column, and commissure. The dry mucosal lip corresponds to the subcutaneous portion, while the junction between dry and wet mucosal lips is known as the peristalsis. The upper lip's vermilion/white roll can be divided into the lateral and apex sections of the cupid's bow and the central filter areas. The lower lip'ans vermilion is segmented into middle and adjacent parts. Both the subvermilion and peristalsis are split into medial and lateral sections. The lip surface comprises four distinct zones: hairy skin, vermilion rim, vermilion mucosa, and cheeks.9
1.2 Lip disorder
I. Swelling: Lip swelling can be triggered by allergic reactions to certain foods, drinks, medications, cosmetics, or airborne irritants. Once the cause is identified and eliminated, the lips typically return to their normal state. However, the underlying reason for swelling often remains unknown. Hereditary angioedema may lead to recurrent swelling episodes. Non-inherited conditions such as Erythema multiforme, exposure to harsh weather, or physical injury can also result in lip swelling10
II. Sun Damage: Prolonged sun exposure can cause the lips, particularly the lower one, to become tough and dry. Red spots or a white film indicate damage that increases the risk of future cancer development. This type of harm can be mitigated by applying a lip balm containing sunscreen, which is used to shield the face from the sun's harmful rays.
III. Inflammation: Lip inflammation may manifest as pain, irritation, redness, cracking, and scaling at the corners of the mouth. This condition could be a result of insufficient vitamin B2 in one's diet.
IV. Discoloration: Freckles and irregularly shaped brown patches are frequently observed around the lips and may persist for extended periods. Kawasaki disease, an illness of unknown origin typically affecting infants and children up to 8 years old, can lead to lip dryness and cracking, as well as redness in the mouth's lining.
V. Sores: An elevated area or a lesion with defined edges on the lip might indicate a form of skin cancer. Other sores may emerge as symptoms of various medical conditions, such as oral herpes simplex virus infection or syphilis. Some sores, like keratoacanthoma, have no known cause.11
1.3 Short information of common ingredients used to prepare lip balm
1.3.1 Beetroot:
Nomenclature:
· Kingdom: Plantae
· Clade: Tracheophytes
· Species: B. vulgaris Synonyms: Chukandar, Sugar beets Mangel, Spinach beet.
Family: Amaranthaceae
Biological source:
It is derived from the fresh root of Beta vulgaris.. Using beetroot on the lips can help reduce the darkness, making them look brighter and lighter. The natural pink color of beetroot also adds a gentle pink tint to the lips.. The red hue of beetroot is attributed to betalain pigments, which consist of two components: Betacyanins (red) and Betaxanthin (yellow), that contribute to its color.12
1.3.2. Honey bees wax:
· Synonyms: Cera alba
· Organic source: Beeswax is a natural wax created by honeybees within their hives. The glands located beneath the bee's abdomen produce this wax, which is then utilized to construct the honeycomb.
· Family: Apidae.
Beeswax is highly moisturizing, offering protection for the lips against the sun's harmful rays, and it has a pleasant aroma. It functions as a natural emulsifier. Studies have also shown that beeswax contains a small amount of natural antibacterial agents. This is particularly beneficial for those with excessively dry and cracked lips. These antibacterial agents can help prevent the painful inflammation caused by infections.2
1.3 3. Castor Oil:
One advantage of using castor oil on lips is its potential to act as a natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and thereby reducing the risk of chapping or dryness. Besides benefiting the skin and lips, castor oil serves several other purposes: Laxative: When ingested, castor oil acts as a potent laxative, as evidenced by a 2012 study; Anti-inflammatory. In conclusion, castor oil is generally deemed safe for application on skin and lips. It is a common component in skincare products. Although allergic reactions to castor oil are possible, they are exceedingly rare.13
1.3.4 Almond oil:
Almond oil is a light, nutrient-dense oil celebrated for its superb moisturizing qualities. It is abundant in vitamin E, fatty acids, and antioxidants, which aid in hydrating, healing, and shielding the lips from dryness and environmental harm. The inclusion of oleic and linoleic acids boosts the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture and enhance lip texture. Furthermore, its non-greasy characteristic makes it perfect for smooth application in lip balm products14
1.3.5. Vitamin E
Synonym: Eprolin, RRR-alpha-tocopherol, Vitamin-E.¸ Biological source: Vitamin E is derived from a variety of foods and oils.
Family: Tocopherols. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant and a natural conditioner. It helps maintain the soft, youthful texture of the lips by reducing signs of aging. Applying vitamin E oil can soothe chapped, dry lips. The thick and oily nature of vitamin E oil can also prevent similar irritation. Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant that can protect your lips from environmental and free radical damage by restoring and renewing skin cells and strengthening the skin's natural protective barrier.15
1.3.6. Sesame Oil:
Rich in antioxidants, studies have shown that when applied topically, sesame oil may reduce cell damage by inhibiting certain compounds known to produce DNA-damaging free radicals. It can accelerate the healing of sunburns, cracks, injuries, and wounds. Sesame oil's effective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties help speed up recovery time and have also been shown to stimulate collagen production at the injury site.16
1.3.7. Honey:
Honey is a natural humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture, keeping your lips hydrated throughout the day. Honey also has anti-inflammatory properties to help soothe chapped lips. Its antibacterial properties help prevent infection if the lips become cracked. It has been reported that honey can aid in removing necrotic tissues, increase the speed of granulation and epithelialization, and reduce scarring.17
2. MATERIAL AND METHOD:
All the crude drugs which require to formulate lip balm are taken from Depatment of Pharmacognosy at SSJIPER Jamner and Processed according as requirements.
2.1 Formulation table:
Table No.1 Formula for the preparation of 20 gm lip balm
|
Ingredient |
Therapeutic Use |
Formula 1 (g) |
Formula 2 (g) |
Formula 3 (g) |
|
Beeswax |
protective agent |
5g |
5g |
4g |
|
Castor Oil |
Moisturing agent |
2.5g |
3.5g |
3.5g(3.7ml) |
|
Almond Oil |
Nutrietive agent |
3g |
4.g |
4.5g(4.3ml) |
|
Jojoba Oil |
Hydrating agent |
2g |
3g |
3.5g(3.7ml) |
|
Sesame Oil |
Antiinflammatory |
1g |
2.5g |
2.5g(2.7ml) |
|
Honey |
Anti-bacteria |
1.5g |
1.5g |
1.5g |
|
Beetroot Powder |
Coloring agent |
0.7g |
0.7g |
1g |
|
Vitamin E |
antioxidant |
2drops |
2 drops |
2 drops |
|
Orange Essential Oil |
antioxidant |
2drops |
2drops |
2 drops |
|
Peppermint Essential Oil |
Humectant |
- |
- |
1 drop |
2.2. Procedure:18
1. Accurately measure all necessary components.
2. Place Bees wax in a clean evaporating dish and melt it using a water bath (temperature should not exceed 50-64°C).
3. Incorporate beetroot powder, Sesame oil, Almond oil, Jojoba oil and castor oil in that order, stirring thoroughly. Label this mixture as A.
4. In a separate evaporating porcelain dish, combine Honey with the contents of a Vitamin E capsule, mixing well. Label this as B.
5. Gradually add the contents of Dish B to Dish A, ensuring both mixtures are at similar temperatures. Stir vigorously while adding drop by drop.
6. Finally, introduce Orange oil and drop of peppermint oil to the formulation and transfer the liquid lip remedy into a clean, wide-mouthed container.
7. Allow the lip balm to cool at ambient temperature.
3. EVALUATION OF HERBAL LIP BALM:
3.1. Organoleptic Evaluation: (Sensory Analysis)
1. Observe the color under normal daylight conditions.
2. Smell the balm and assess odor stability over time.
3. Apply a small amount on the fingertips and rub it to check for texture smoothness.
4. Taste a minimal amount (if applicable) to check for any unpleasant taste.19
3.2. Physical and Chemical Tests:
3.2.1. pH Measurement:20
Materials:
Digital pH meter or pH strips, distilled water.
Procedure:
1. Melt a small portion of the balm at 37°C.
2. Add 1g of melted balm to 10mL distilled water and mix thoroughly.
3. Measure pH using pH strips or a calibrated pH meter
3.2.2. Melting Point Determination:21
Materials:
Capillary tube, thermometer, melting point apparatus.
Procedure:
1. Fill a capillary tube with a small portion of the lip balm.
2. Attach it to a melting point apparatus.
3. Gradually heat and note the temperature at which the balm melts.
3.2.3. Spreadability Test:22
Materials:
Glass slides, weight (100g), ruler.
Procedure:
1. Apply 1g of lip balm between two glass slides.
2. Place a 100g weight on the slides for 5 minutes.
3. Measure the diameter of the spreaded balm.
3.2.4. Hardness and Firmness Test:23
Materials:
Penetrometer or Texture Analyzer.
Procedure:
1. Place the lip balm sample in the texture analyzer.
2. Apply a standard force and measure the penetration depth.
3. If using a manual method, press with a finger and note deformation resistance.
3.3. Stability Studies:
3.3.1. Thermal Stability Test:24
Procedure:
1. Store lip balm at three different temperatures:
3.3.2. Light Stability Test:25
Procedure:
1. Keep lip balm under UV light for 7 days.
2. Observe for color changes or degradation.
3.4. Irritation Tests:
3.4.1. Skin Sensitivity Test (Patch Test):
Procedure:
1. Apply a small amount of balm on the inner wrist.
2. Observe for redness, irritation, or allergic reaction over 24 hours.
3.5. User Acceptability Study:31
Procedure:
1. Distribute lip balm samples to 10-20 participants.
2. Obtain feedback by analyze responses using qualitative and quantitative methods.
4. RESULT:
4.1. Table No 2Final Evaluation table
|
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
|
|
Colour |
Faint red |
Red |
Red |
|
Odour |
Plesent oily |
Pleasant |
Pleasant |
|
Appearance |
Partialy rough |
Oily |
smooth |
|
Ph |
6.05 |
6.06 |
6.20 |
|
Stability |
Stable at all temperature |
Stable at all temperature |
Stable at all temperature |
|
Spreadibility |
Uniform |
Uniform |
Uniform |
|
Skin irritation |
No |
No |
no |
|
Melting point |
61 |
62 |
64 |
4.2. Table No.3 Other test:
|
Parameter |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
|
Moisturization |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
|
Long lasting effect |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
|
Comfort level |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
|
Overall satisfaction |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
4.3. RESULT AND DISCUSSION:
Lips have very delicate skin and are highly prone to drying out, which can lead to chapping. Ointments tend to be sticky, so lip balm is the best alternative for application on lips. Lip balm helps retain moisture and prevents chapping. Synthetic dyes, flavors, and other ingredients can be harmful to lips, potentially causing dryness, allergic reactions, and darkening. The current research aims to develop a lip balm with as many herbal ingredients as possible. To make lips attractive and enhance the aesthetic appeal of a cosmetic product, the choice of dyes is crucial. In this formulation, beetroot dye was used as a coloring agent. Beetroot is an easily accessible source of red and yellow color. These colors are known as betalains, which include betaxanthins responsible for the yellow hue and betacyanins responsible for the red color. The primary component of betacyanins is betanin, which constitutes 75 to 95 percent and gives beets their red color. Preserving the colors is essential for the visual appeal of the product. This study also emphasizes the red coloring of the formulation; therefore, beetroot is selected as the primary color source. Additionally, betanin has antioxidant properties and has been shown to reduce lipid peroxidation.
5. CONCLUSION:
The cosmetics industry is expanding due to the rising demand for beauty-enhancing products. This study focused on creating and assessing herbal lip balms, with the goal of developing a lip balm using natural ingredients to reduce the side effects associated with chemical-based synthetic lip balms. The results indicate that the lip balm was successfully formulated using these natural components. In this research, a lip balm was developed with betacyanin pigment and enriched with natural oil, which can help alleviate oxidative stress on the lips, thus preventing dryness and slowing the aging process. Consequently, it can serve as a cosmeceutical.
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Received on 17.04.2025 Revised on 11.08.2025 Accepted on 27.10.2025 Published on 18.04.2026 Available online from April 25, 2026 Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2026; 17(1):21-25. DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2026.00005 ©A and V Publications All right reserved
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