INTRODUCTION:

Skin cells will eventually sustain damage from external causes such free radicals, sunshine, and pollutants as well as internal variables like health, a weakened immune system, hormone fluctuations, and decreased elastin and collagen structure in the skin. At productive age, premature aging might manifest as dry, rough, scaly skin with wrinkles, rapid drooping, and black spots or spots.^1,3,5 Changes in skin elasticity drive natural aging of the skin, which is described as internal processes causing aging of the skin. The extracellular matrix (ECM) contains connective tissue, which is attached to collagen, a protein present in the skin's outer layer. Damage to this protein alters the makeup of skin tissue, which accelerates the aging process.^2,4

In medical terms, oil glands at the base of hair follicles are affected by acne vulgaris, a common skin ailment. Acne is considered a skin illness. It is often during puberty that the sebaceous (oil) glands grow. The adrenal glands of both sexes produce male hormones that activate the aforementioned glands. The name acne vulgaris implies "common acne" when referring to this kind of acne. Modifications to the sebaceous glands cause this skin disease. Inflammation brought on by an underlying infection is what causes the redness on the skin. Acne is a common skin disorder that creates pimples and is more common in young people. Most people have acne, but teenagers going through hormonal changes are more susceptible to it. Treatment solutions for acne can range depending on its severity. Few, occasional pimples, moderate acne with inflammatory papules, or severe acne with nodules and cysts can all be signs of mild acne.⁷ The transitional period between childhood and adulthood known as puberty is linked to increased levels of hormone production and acne. Acne is more common as people age. Acne vulgaris, often known as acne, is caused by alterations in the pilosebaceous units, or skin structures composed of a hair follicle and the sebaceous gland that is adjacent to it. Acne symptoms can be classified as mild, moderate, or severe.⁹

In the United States, watermelon is a significant vegetable crop that is mostly farmed in the southern states. It was brought to the New World in the 1500s. From a late-maturing vine with little fruit, watermelon has been enhanced through formal plant breeding and domestication.⁶ By weight, the fruit is 90% water and 6% sugar, along with a wealth of nutrients including protein, fat, and carbohydrates, as well as minerals like calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc and minerals like beta-carotene, which is concentrated in vitamin A, C, and B. Additionally, it contains a wealth of potent, naturally occurring antioxidants that move throughout the body to neutralize free radicals, which harm the human body Wolford. It serves as a worm exterminator as well.¹¹

Fig. Citrullus lanatus seeds

APPLICATION: -

1. Excellent humectant and moisturizing qualities can be found in watermelon seed oil.

2. It has been shown that it benefits both dry and oily skin types.

3. It helps to restore the flexibility of the skin and is readily absorbed by the skin.

4. The cosmetics industry can use watermelon oil.

5. Creating a moisturizer with characteristics comparable to those of high-end brands.

6. Oil's antioxidant qualities are advantageous for skincare since they help fight free radicals caused by pollution and sun damage.

7. Emulsions and nanoemulsions made of seed oil that are formulated into skincare products.

8. When it comes to minimizing and preventing cellular damage, seed oil ought to be a more useful addition in cosmeceutical solutions than peel wax.

9. The extract from watermelon seeds was successfully used to create two types of cosmeceutical product emulsions and nano emulsions.

10. Watermelon seed oil's physicochemical characteristics for their applicability as raw materials for biodiesel fuel manufacturing.

ACNE MECHANISM: -

There are multiple factors that contribute to the formation and progression of this common skin condition. You can summarize the reasons of acne like this.

1. Enhanced Production of Sebum: Androgens, or hormones similar to testosterone, increase the production of more sebum, or oil, by sebaceous glands. The development of acne can be aided by an environment of oily skin resulting from excessive production of sebum.

2. Follicular Hyperkeratinization Mechanism: Within each hair follicle, the abnormal loss of keratinocytes, or skin cells, occurs. This blocks the follicle and causes a blockage called a comedo to form. Open comedones: Also known as blackheads, these are partially occluded follicles with a darker surface.

3. These completely closed follicles with a flesh-colored or white surface are commonly called "whiteheads." Effect: The blockage may encourage the growth of bacteria and prevent the sebum from leaving the skin properly.

4. Cutibacterium acnes colonization (C. acnes) Mechanism: The anaerobic (low oxygen) environment that clogged follicles create is ideal for the skin-normalizing bacterium C. acnes. Impact: When Candida albicans grows, the immune system responds by producing inflammation and inflammatory lesions such papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts.

5. Inflammation Mechanism: When C. acnes is present, the body responds by releasing pro-inflammatory cytokines and other immune-related chemicals. Free fatty acids are also produced when bacterial lipases break down sebum, and these acids exacerbate inflammation.¹²

6. High levels of proteins, minerals, vitamins, and healthful unsaturated fatty acids can be found in watermelon seeds. These days, the majority of Indians deal with the chronic skin ailment acne vulgaris.^13,14,15

Effect: -

Redness, swelling, and pus development are the outcomes of inflammation. Severe cases may result in the formation of painful cysts and nodules.⁸

Types of Acne Lesion Synopsis: The many kinds of acne lesions are listed as follows: non-inflammatory wounds Two types of comedones are blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones). An inflammatory lesion is:

1. Papules: Little, red, raised, inflammatory pimples.

2. Pustules: Red, inflamed lumps packed with pus.

3. nodules are large, uncomfortable bumps deep in the skin.

4. cysts: deep, painful, pus-filled lesions that might leave marks.^2,4,9

Factors that cause acne:

Known as Propionibacterium acnes, P. acne A change in follicular keratinization.

· Drugs that cause inflammation androgen-stimulated increased sebum hyperproduction.

· Due to the application of cosmetics.

· Changes in Hormones and Menstruation on the pimples with pressure.

· Genetics of nutrition.

· Stress, etc.

Treatment of acne:

Minimal acne: Anti-acne facial lotion Antibiotics and topical retinoids.

Moderate acne: Anti-acne tablets, lotions, moisturizers, and creams, are developed by the pharmaceutical industry to address this issue.

Severe acne: Hormonal therapy.

One kind of semisolid emulsion that is administered externally is cream, which comes in two varieties: water in oil (w/o) or oil in water (o/w). An emulsion of water and oil is what cream is classified as. The outermost or most superficial layer of the skin is where it is applied and its lasting longer at the application site is its primary advantage. In addition to protecting the skin from external factors, the cream's functions include healing infections, removing tans and acne, and soothing skin. Applying the cream to the skin.^1,5,11

MATERIAL AND METHOD:

Instrumentation:

A 500 ml soxhlet extraction device, a 500 ml round-bottom flask, a digital balance, a heating mantle, a reflux condenser, a refractometer, a viscometer, a manual grinder, two pots (one for water and the other for oil), a wooden stirring rod.

Chemical:

starch soluble, hydrochloric acid, carbon tetrachloride, phenolphthalein, diethyl ether, ethanol, potassium iodide, Wijs solution, glacial acetic acid, chloroform, sodium thiosilphate, etc. Stearic acid, emywax white, sorbitol, triethanolamine, fragrane, microcare, propyl parabene, methyl parabene, vitamin E, and water are ingredients in skin lotion composition. oil from melon seeds.

Preparing the Sample:

Uli Central Market is where the watermelon fruits required to remove the seeds were purchased. A sharp knife was used to carefully cut a few fully ripe fruits, wash them in clean water, and then carefully remove the seeds from the juicy pod. Following a thorough cleaning of the selected.^1,12,15

EXTRACTION PROCEDURE:

1. Using this procedure, 10 grams of coarsely ground crude drug is put in a porous bag or thimble made of sturdy filter paper and placed inside the apparatus's Soxhlet chamber.

2. To prevent bumping, place the round-bottom flask in a heating medium and add several glass beds to it.

3. Use a funnel to add the appropriate solvent, such as ethanol, methanol, ethyl acetate, chloroform, etc., to the top of the condenser tube before it passes into the Soxhlet chamber.

4. The solvent is poured through the drug material in the soxhlet chamber and into the siphon tube. Once the solvent has been poured to the desired level, the solvent drips into the flask with a circular bottom.

5. If the solvent is heated to the boiling point in a flask, the extraction solvent.

6. Vapor turns into liquid upon condensation, and this liquid then drips, drop by drop, into the thimble carrying the crude medication.

7. The siphon tube and chamber are both filled with this solvent that has dissolved the chemical components.

8. After the level of this solvent reaches the siphon tube's return point, it falls to the flask with a circular bottom, completing one cycle and repeating three times. It's an ongoing process.^3,7,16

Fig. Soxhelt extraction method

Formulation of Cream:

1. Heat the liquid paraffin and beeswax in a borosilicate glass beaker to 75 °C and maintain that temperature. oil phase.

2. In a separate beaker, dissolve borax and methylparaben in distilled water. Heat the mixture to 75 °C to get a clear solution. (Phase of water).

3. This watery phase should then be gradually added to the heated oily phase. Add exactly the right amount of watermelon seed oil after that.

4. Mix thoroughly until a smooth, creamy cream forms. Next, add a few drops of rose oil for scent. This cream should be spread out on the slab, stirred with a few drops of distilled water if necessary, and then blended using a geometric motion to give the mixture a smooth consistency.^2,10,13

Table: Formula of cream

Sr.no.	Ingredient	Formula
1.	Watermelon seed extract	3.5ml
2.	Beeswax	3 gm
3.	Liquid paraffin	10ml
4.	Borax	0.2gm
5.	Methylparaben	0.02gm
6.	Distilled water	5ml
7.	Rose oil	0.1ml

Evaluation Parameter:

The following parameters were checked to evaluate the anti-acne cream:

1. Determination of the type of emulsion A scarlet red dye was mixed with the cream:

A drop of the cream was placed on microscopic slide and examined under a microscope.

If the disperse globules appear red the continuous phase colourless, the cream is oil in water (o/w) type. The reverse condition is occurs water in oil (w/o) type cream.

2. pH of the cream:

The pH meter was calibrated using standard buffer solution. About 0.5 g of the cream was weighed and dissolved in 50 ml of distilled water and its pH was measured. pH of the cream base was found to be in range of 6.2- 6.9 which is good for skin pH.

All the formulation of cream base were shown pH nearer to skin requiredFormulation. PH-6.4

3. Homogeneity:

The uniformity of the formulation was assessed through touch and appearance. By pressing a tiny amount of the prepared cream and gels between the thumb and index finger, homogeneity and texture were examined. The texture and homogeneity of the formulations were assessed based on their consistency and the existence of coarse particles. ^5,11

4. Appearance:

Visual Appeal The color, pearlescence, and roughness of the cream were used to score its appearance. Because creams contain more oil than lotions or gels, they have a thicker, creamier texture than those other products. Creams feel opulent and cozy on the skin because of their silky, emollient nature. The formulation was tested for homogeneity by visual appearance and touch.

The appearance of the cream was judged by its color, pearlescence and roughness and graded. Creams have a thicker, creamier texture than lotions or gels because they contain more oil than those alternatives. The texture is smooth and emollient, making creams feel luxurious and comforting on the skin.

5. Washability:

The hand was treated with a modest amount of cream and then rinsed with tap water.

6. Removal:

By using tap water to wash the area where the cream was applied, the cream's ease of removal was evaluated.

7. Stability study:

In order to conduct the stability study, the anti-acne cream was kept for two months at three distinct temperatures: 8°C, 27°C, and 40°C.

8. Spread ability test:

The cream sample was applied between the two glass slides and was compressed between the two-glass slide to uniform thickness by placing 100 gm of weight for 5 minutes then weight was added to the weighing pan. The time in which the upper glass slide moved over the lower slide was taken as ameasure of spread ability.

Spread ability = m*l/t

Where, m = weight tight to upper slide

1 = length moved on the glass slide

t = time take^7,9,16

Current trends:

Watermelon seed extract has emerged as a promising ingredient in cosmeceutical anti-acne creams due to its unique properties that align with current trends in skincare. Here are some key trends related to the use of watermelon seed extract in anti-acne products:

1. Natural and Clean Beauty Movement:

The extract is valued for its natural vitamins, antioxidants, and omega fatty acids, which help reduce inflammation and promote skin healing without the need for synthetic additives.

2. Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Benefits:

The extract contains linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid) and antioxidants like vitamin E, which help reduce inflammation, minimize redness, and prevent acne scars.

3. Oil Regulation for Acne-Prone Skin:

Rich in unsaturated fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, watermelon seed oil helps regulate sebum production. It moisturizes without clogging pores, making it ideal for oily or combination skin types prone to acne.

4. Non-Comedogenic Formulations:

As a lightweight, non-greasy oil, watermelon seed extract is non-comedogenic, making it a favorable ingredient in anti-acne creams designed to hydrate without causing breakouts.

5. Sustainability and Upcycling in Skincare:

Extracting oil from watermelon seeds is seen as a sustainable practice, particularly when seeds are sourced from watermelon pulp used for other purposes, aligning with the "upcycled beauty" trend.

6. Multifunctional Ingredients:

The extract hydrates, balances oil production, and provides antioxidant protection, addressing various skin concerns (acne, aging, sensitivity) in one ingredient.

7. Transparency and Ingredient-Focused Branding:

Watermelon seed extract is marketed as a "superfood for the skin," and brands use its rich vitamin profile (especially vitamin E and zinc) to emphasize the efficacy and safety of their products.

8. Gentle Acne Care for Sensitive Skin:

Its soothing and hydrating properties make it ideal for sensitive skin that needs acne care without irritation, balancing out the harsher actives often used in acne products.

9. Hydration and Skin Barrier Protection:

The hydrating fatty acids and vitamins in watermelon seed oil help to maintain the skin’s moisture balance, repairing the lipid barrier, and preventing further breakouts.^1,6,10

Marketed Example:

Glow Recipe's Watermelon Line:

This brand has popularized watermelon extract in skincare with its focus on hydration and glow. While its core watermelon product is more geared toward hydration, its soothing and antioxidant properties align well with acne-prone skin.

Youth to the People’s Superfood Line:

Emphasizing plant-based, antioxidant-rich ingredients, this line incorporates various fruit and vegetable extracts, with watermelon being an emerging trend for balancing acne-prone skin.^2,14

Future Directions:

Research and Clinical Studies:

As interest grows, more clinical studies on the efficacy of watermelon seed extract for acne treatment are expected. This will further solidify its role in targeted anti-acne formulations.

Ingredient Synergy:

We may also see watermelon seed extract combined with other natural actives like niacinamide, tea tree oil, or bakuchiol to enhance its anti-acne and skin-soothing effects.^5,6

CONCLUSION:

The study's findings allow us to draw the conclusion that the anti-acne cream's formulation can reduce excessive oil production from skin cells while maintaining the sebaceous glands' normal function. As well as treating skin infections, it can help avoid whiteheads and blackheads. It keeps skin from being irritated or discolored. It can assist in preserving a reduction in dryness and itching.^2,7,9

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Received on 12.11.2024 Revised on 20.01.2025

Accepted on 10.03.2025 Published on 28.03.2025

Available online from April 01, 2025

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2025; 16(1):43-48.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2025.00008

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