INTRODUCTION:

Although cosmetics for the cause of beautifying, perfuming, cleansing, or rituals have existed for the reason that foundation of civilization, simplest within side the twentieth century has first rate development been made within side the diversification of merchandise and capabilities and within side the protection and safety of the consumer.

Before 1938, cosmetics had been now no longer regulated as drugs, and cosmetology ought to regularly be taken into consideration as a manner to promote desires in place of goal efficacy; protection for purchasers changed into additionally every now and then precarious. Subsequently, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), via the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, regulated cosmetics that had been required to be secure for the consumer.¹

The word ‘cosmetic’ derived from a Greek word ‘kosmesticos’ that means to adorn. Form that time any material used to beautification or promoting appearance is known as cosmetic.

The word ‘cosmetic’ actually stems from its use in Ancient and Rome. They were topically produced by female slaw known as ‘cosmectae’ which is where the word “cosmetic” termed form cosmetic are used to enhance appearance.²

The term cosmetic is define as in section 201(i) of the 1938 food, drug and cosmetic Act (FDC and Act) as:

1. Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and.

2. Article intended for use as a component of any such article except that such term shall not include soap.³

The significance of cosmetics has accelerated as many human beings need to live younger and attractive. Cosmetics are conveniently to be had nowadays withinside the shape of lotions, serum, lipstick, perfumes, eye shadows, nail polishes, hair sprays etc. Other cosmetics like face powder deliver glow to the pores and skin after making use of the bottom cream.

Face Serum:

Serum is a concentrated product that is widely used in cosmetology. The cosmetic serum is as concentrated in water or oil as any other cream serum or other concentrated product that contains ten times more organic matter than cream⁴.

Serum is a skin care product containing a gel or lightweight lotion or moisturizing consistency and have the ability to penetrate deeper to deliver active ingredient into the skin. A good skin serum can give your skin a stronger, smoother texture, make pores appear smaller and increase moisture levels⁵.

Serum providing intensive nutrition to the deeper skin layer and non-fat finish product which suitable for skin. Cosmetic serum was classified based on its rate of absorption and the ability to penetrate into the deeper layer of the skin⁶.

Advantage⁷

· Improve skin texture.

· Minimizes the skin pores.

· Hydrates and nourishes the skin.

· Improve skin elasticity.

Disadvantages⁷

· The liquid or gel like texture of serum can be a poor match for people with chronic skin condition like eczema or rosacea, which weaken the skin barrier.

· For this people, serum may penetrate to quickly, causing irritation.

Hyperpigmentation:

Skin hyperpigmentation is a disorder in which patches of skin became darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. Melanin is an important pigment is skin hyperpigmentation which is produced by the process called melanogenesis⁸.

There are three types of skin hyperpigmentation which are melsama, post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation and age spot or liver spot.

Skin hyperpigmentation is caused by exposer, Addison’s diseases, hormonal imbalance and vitamin B12.

There are two enzyme responsible for melanin production; one is tyrosinase and the other is dopachorometatuomerase. Tyrosinase is mane enzyme in melanin growth and over activity of tyrosinase enzyme cause hyperpigmentation. There are many herbs or chemical compound which has tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Herbs like NelumbonuciferaGaertn [Nelumbonaceae],Sesamumangolenesewelw[pedaliaceae],Glycyrrhizaglabra [fabaceae], Lavandulaangustifolia [lamiaceae], Aloe barbadensis[asphodelaceae].etc.have been used for treatment of skin hyperpigmentation⁸.

Fig. No. 1: Type of skin hyperpigmentation

Causes of Hyperpigmentation:

Hyperpigmentation is caused by many factors. These may be exogeneous and endogenous factors such as endocrinological factors: Addison’s disease, cushing, s syndromes, nelson syndrome, Pheochromocytoma, carcinoid, acromegaluy, Hyperthryrodisam, Acanthosis Nigerians, Diabetes, Nutritional factors: Kwashiorkor, Vitamins B12 deficiency, Folic acid deficiencies, Niacin deficiency, tryptophan deficiency.

Hyperpigmentation of skin is a common dermatological condition in which the color of the skin generally becomes darker. These changes in skin coloration can be a result of various internal and external factors including hormonal changes, inflammation, injury, acne, eczema, certain medication, UV exposure, etc. Skin pigmentation and coloration are governed by the biological process involving the production of skin pigment called melanin produced by melanocytes in various layers of skin. Thus alteration in melanocyte production or distribution of melanine results in skin hyperpigmentation disorder.

Hyperpigmentation is the term include various skin discoloration, pigmentation and darkening related disorder. Various commonly observed hyperpigmentation disorders include melasma post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation, ephelids, lentigines, and many more. Melasma refers to an acquired hypermelanosis skin condition in which irregular patches of light to dark brown or gry-brown lesions appear on the sun-exposed parts of the skin. Although hyperpigmentation is a common cosmetic complaint in most skin types, it is prominently found in middle-aged women and the population⁹.

PathophysiologyofHyperpigmentation:

Melanocytes responsible for the tegument color in skin is produced embryonically from neural crest cells. They are melanosome-producing cells present in the basal layer at the dermal and epidermal junction.

The melanogenesis pathway occurs within a melanosome leading to the production of black-brown Eumelanin and/or the yellow-red Pheomelanin. L-Tyrosine increases melanosome production and L-Tyrosine increases melanosome production and L-Tyrosine increases tyrosinase activity. Thus, regulating the L-Dopachrome increases tyrosinase activity. Thus, regulating the L-Tyrosine and L-DOPA levels plays a major role in homeostasis of melanogenic systems¹⁰.

Tyrosinase, a glycoprotein (60–70 kDa), contains copper and acts as the rate-limiting enzyme of the melanin biosynthesis pathway and, therefore, considered as a potential target for several therapeutic agents. The tyrosinase, TYRP-1 and TYRP-2, enzymes involved in melanogenesis are regulated by the master transcription factor known as the microphthalmia transcription factor (MITF). The α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and the adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) are present in the epidermis and dermis and act as major regulators of the melanogenesis pathway¹¹.

Melanosomes undergo degradation differently in diverse skin types during the keratinocyte differentiation process. They either reach the outermost epidermal layers intact, as seen in darker

MATERIAL AND METHODS:

· Aloe Vera leaves was collected from the herbal garden of P.R.Patil institute of pharmacy.

· Dried licorice root and lemon was collected from local market Talegoans.pWardha Maharashtra. collected.

· Sesamum seed was collected from cultivated plant of Sesamumangolenesewelw in farm.

Aloe vera:

Fig. No. 2: Collection of Fresh aloevera gel

Effect on skin exposures to UV and gamma radiation. Aloe vera gel has been reported to have a protective effect against radiation damage to the skin. Moisturizing and anti-aging effect.Mucopolysaccharides help in binding moisture into the skin. Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibers making the skin more elastic and loss wrinkle¹⁴.

Mechanisms of action: Aloesin has amoisturizing agent and tyrosinase inhibitor.¹⁵

Sesamum seed:

Fig No. 3 Dried Sesamum seeds

Sesame oil contains vitamin E, which can help protect skin cells from the damage caused by environmental factors such as UV rays, pollution and toxins. Sesame oil also contains several Phenolic compounds, which give it its anti-oxidant and which reduces the hyperpigmentation. These compounds include - Tocophreol Pinotrdsinol¹⁶

Liquorice roots:

Fig. No. 4- Dried Liquorice root powder

Glycyrrhiza glabra extract play a large role on the skin mainly as a result of its antioxident activity, especially its storng antioxident glycyrrhizin, triterpene saponins, and flavonoids. The main attributes are skin whitening, skin depigmentation, lightening of the skin, anti-aging, anti-erythenic, emollient, anti-acne, and photoprotective effects¹⁸.

Mechanisms of action: It contain glycyrrhizic acid, Glycyrrhizin, Glabridin. It shows UVB protection , Mosturizing agent.¹⁹

Lemon oil:

Fig. No. 5– Extracted Lemon oli

Lemon essential oil to control free radical induced lipid peroxidation and preventive tissue damage in skin²⁰.

Collection of plants:

Aloe Vera leaves was collected from the herbal garden of P.R. Patil institute of pharmacy. Dried licorice root and lemon was collected from local market Talegoans.pWardha Maharashtra. collected. Sesamum seed was collected from cultivated plant of Sesamumangolenesewelw in farm.

Method of extraction:

Aloe vera gel:

Aloe Vera gel was collected homogenized at one 1200 RPM under mechanical homogenizer. The homogenized gel was further filter with a vacuum filter to get a clear and transparent gel²¹.

Licorice:

Dried licorice root were obtained from a local market, Talegoans.pWardha Maharashtra. Wash the root of licorice after washing all the root they were dried for 3 to 4 days in hot-air-oven. Root where cot into small pieces in a grinder and where ground did to course powder 50g oflicorice powder was mixed with 250 ml of water in a iodine bottles. The mixture was mixed thoroughly with glass rod. The iodine bottles were kept for 72 hours the mixture was filtered using whatman no.1 filter paper. The resulting residues were kept in the refrigerator until further use²²

Lemon oil:

Lemon peel was collected and crushed into grinder.100 gm of mass of sample was taken in a round bottom flask and two-third of it was filled with distil water. It is being supplied to the distillation unit by temperature control basket heater at the initial stage it is carried out temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes time period. The distillat is collected in a conical flask. This distillate in a conical flask. After distillation process oil and water layer was separated by using chloroform extraction method. This distillat has poured into 250ml separating funnel and 2 gm of sodium chloride was added in it. The separating funnel was stoppered, shaken and vented for four or five times. 15 ml chloroform was used to rinse the apparatus and it was allowed to drain into the separating funnel. The lemon oil was extracted from the upper organic layer by invertingthe separating funnel and shaking it back and forth gently. The layers were allowed to separate before draining the lower aqueous layer. The topmost layer was collected and the extraction was repeated by using another 10 ml of chloroform. The chloroform extracts were combined in a single beaker and kept in a water bath to vaporize the chloroform present in the extract. After the chloroform had evaporated completely, orange oil remained and it was collected and stored²³.

Formulation of face serum:

Table no.1: Formulation table

Ingredients	F1	F2	F3
Aloe vera gel	70%	70%	65%
Licorice extract	20%	23 %	30%
Lemon oil	2.0%	2.0%	1.0%
Sesamum oil	2.5%	1.5%	0.5%
Glycerine	2.5%	1.5%	1.0%
Tween 20	2%	2%	2%
Perfume	q.s	q.s	q.s

Preparation of serum:

The emulsion (o/w) was prepared according to the formula given above. The oil components consisting of lemon oil, sesamum oil and tween 20 is mixed together for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform solution. At the same time the water phase was prepared by mixing aloe vera gel, licorice, glycerine and small amount of distilled water uniformly. The oil phase is added to the liquid phase by drop wise under by trituration method using mortal pestel to obtained oil in water based on biphasic emulsion²⁵

Fig. No. 6- Herbal face Serum

Evaluation of face serum:

· Physical evaluation:

Observe the serum formulation sample which should be in brownish in color appear. Next after applying on skin to access the texture which should smooth homogeneous texture and non-greasy⁶.

· pH value:

The pH test will be determined by using Digital pH meter. Dipper of digital pH will be deep into the sample of serum formulation and the pH value will be recorded. The pH of the formulation should having acidic pH as the skin is having an acidic pH of around 4-5.5. As the skin having an acidic pH around 4.1-6.7, this range of formulation is suitable for skin²¹.

· Spredability test:

Some size of filter paper are choose and each filter paper is measure the total area of filter paper (A1) and weighing of each filter paper (W1). Choose the formulation to be tested and drawn several ml into the 5ml of pipette then 20 drop of serum was put drop by drop in center of filter paper. When latest drop hits the filter paper, start a time or stopwatch to count down for exactly 10 minutes. During the 10 minute test, the liquid will spread in a relatively uniform circular pattern over the filter paper. After 10 minutes, exactly underline saturated spread and write the paper by using cutter. Weight the remaining dry (unsaturated) filter paper. Record this weight as W2. Measure diameter of the saturated portion of filter paper. If the spread was not a perfect circle then take several diameter reduce around a spread area and determine and average diameter.

Record this measurement as A2.

%Spread by Area = (A1/A2) 100.agent]⁶.

F1 64%

F2 74%

F3 86%

Fig No7- Spredability of Formulation F1, F2 and F3

· Stability test:

It is to determine physical and chemical stability of the product with accelerated stability analysis which subjects the material to elevated temperatures. Short term accelerated stability study was carried out for the period of 1 month for the formulation. The sample were stored at different storge conditions of temperatures⁶.

· Homogeneity.

This will be confirmed by spread some of the serum formulation on the transparent glass and observe it. The formulation should produce uniform distribution of serum⁶.

· Cyclical Temperature test²⁵

Table no. 2: Temperature study

Sr. No	Parameter	stability
1.	Freezer temperature	stable
2.	Room temperature	stable

· After feel:

We give a 10 volunteer of different type of skin texture and formulated sample was applied on skin, had a soothing and pleasant effect as informed to us by the individual There was no any skin irritation and it had emollient and moisturizing action.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

Table No.-3 Physical Evaluation study

Colour	Brownish
Odour	Characteristic odour
Texture	Smooth homogenous

Serum formulation is brownish in color, smooth homogenous texture with no phase separation

pH evaluation:

Table no.4: pH Evaluation study

	Day 1	Wk 1	Wk 2	Wk 3	Wk 4	Mean
F1	4.75	4.75	4.85	5.01	5.5	4.97
F2	4.65	4.87	4.67	5.00	5.4	4.91
F3	5.02	5.05	5.1	5.15	5.20	5.10

The pH of formulation is found range in between 4.97, 4.91, 5.10 as the skin having an acidic pH around 4.1-6.7, this range of formulation is suitable for skin.

Spreadability:

Table no. 5: Spreadability study

Sr. no	P1	P2	P3	Mean
F1	63.2%	59.80%	69.01%	64%
F2	75.8%	80.51%	67.86%	74.72%
F3	86.2%	89.71%	82.81%	86.24%

Spreadability of liquid formulation that is ability of face serum to spread over the skin and play important role in administration of standard dose of medicament formulation on skin.

CONCLUSION:

The present study is on to formulate herbal face serum which is safe and does not produce any side effect.

The herbal serum which provide moisturizing property and glowing activity.

In this serum aloe vera contain number of vitamins and minerals that have strong moisturizing property, Sesame oil contains vitamin E terpenoid which show hyperpigmentation property and can help protect skin cells from the damage caused by environmental factors such as UV rays and pollution. Licorice has been reported to gives the antioxidant property and UVB protection. Lemon oil has antimicrobial, antioxidant, antibacterial property.

REFERENCES:

1. Rai P, Proudly AP, Das S, Pharmaceutical Cream and there use in wound Handbook of cosmetic science and technology edited by Andre’O. Barel Marc Paye Howard l. Maibach 3rd edition. 1-2

2. Shah RN, Methal BM, A Handbook of cosmetic. 1

3. Bucalo AJ.1999 State of the Industry, global Cosmet Ind., 1999; june:32

4. Miss. Purva S Rajdev1 Prof. Gaikwad S. D2, Miss. Akanksha A Somvanshi3, Miss. Shubhangi S Gunjal4, Formulation and Evaluation of Face serum, 2(5), 2022; 255-258.

5. Smriti Ojha*, SurabhiSinha, Swadhapriya Das Chaudhuri, HinaChadha, BabitaAggarwal, SeemaMahor Jain, Ajeet and Meenu, Formulation and Evaluation of Face Serum Containing Bee Venom and Aloe Vera Gel, 8(2), 2019; 1100-1105.

6. S. Budiasih*, I. Masyitah1, K. Jiyauddin1,2, M. Kaleemullah1, A. D. Samer1, A. Mohd Fadli1, 2 and Eddy Y. 1,2 Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent 2018; 297-304

7. Khan Talha N1 Pawar Shankar B2, DapkekarSambhaji A3, ShindePallavi M4 DatkhileSachin V4, Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Face Serum. 2022; 7(1): 91-94

8. Prity Rathee1, Sunil Kumar1,2, Dinesh Kumar1, BeenaKumari2 and Savita S. Yadav3, Skin hyperpigmentation and its treatment with herbs: an alternative method, 2021; 7(132): 1-14

9. Lee AY (2014) An updated review of melisma pathogenesis. Dermatological Sin 32(4):233-239.

10. AvniNautiyal, SarikaWairkar, Management of Hyperpigmentation: Current treatments and emerging therapies, 34(6), 2021; 1000-1014.

11. D’ Mello, S., Finaly, G., Baguley, B., and Askarian-Amiri, M. (2016). Sigmaling pathways in melanognesis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 17(7), 1-18.

12. Duval, C., Cohen, C., Chagnoleau, C., Flouret, V., Bourreau, E., and Bernerd, F. (2014). Key regulatory role of dermal fibroblasts in pigmentation as demonstrated using a reconstructed skin model: Impact of photo-aging PLoS One, 9(12), 4066-6087.

13. Yamaguchi, Y., and Hearing, V.J. (2009). Physiological factors that regulate skin pigmentation. Biogactors, 35(2), 193-199.

14. Mr. SachinNavale, Ms Tejaswini Shinde, Ms. Sonali Mali, Ms Apeksha Jadhav, Ms. Poonum Shinde, Ms. Pratiksha Narute, Preparation of Aloevera Gel 2(1), 2022; 105-107.

15. VaibhavS, Lakshaman K (2012) Tyrosine enzyme inhibitor activity of selected india herbs, Int J Res PharmaceutBlomedSci 3(3):977-987.

16. Aejaz Ahmad Dar1, Neelakantan Arumugam Ligmans of Sesame: purification methods, biological activities and biosynthesis 50, 2013; 1-10.

17. Kamagaju L, Morandini R, Bizuru, E, Nyetera P, Nduwayezu JB, Stevigny C et al (2013) Tyrosinase modulation by five Rwanese herbal medicines traditionally used for skin treatment J Ethnopharmacol 146(3):824-834.

18. Couteau C, coiffard L (2016) Overview of skin whitening agents drugs abd cisnetuc oridycts Cosmetics 3(3); 27.

19. Ebanks JP, Wickett RR, Boissy RE (2009) Mechanisms regulating skin pigmentation: The rise and fall of complexion coloration. Int J MolSci 10(9): 4066-4087.

20. Mercy Nisha Pauline. J, Nithyalakshmi, B, Aadhithiya Lakshmi R Department of Industrial Biotechnology, Goverrnment Collage of technology, Extraction of Orange Oil by Improved Steam Distillation and its Characterization Studies, 3(2), 2015; 1-8.

21. SmritiOjha, Surabhi Sinha, Swadhapriya Das Chaudhuri, HinaChadha, BabitaAggarwal, SeemaMahor Jain, Ajeet and Meenu. Formulation and evaluation of face serum containing bee venom and Aloe vera gel, 8(2), 2019; 1100-1105.

22. Roopali M Sankeshwari, Anil V Ankola, Kishore Bhat1, Kirankumar Hullatti2, Soxhlet versus cold maceration: Which method gives better antimicrobial activity to licorice extract against streptococcus mutans?, 24(2),2018; 67-70.

23. Mercy Nisha Pauline. J*, Nithyalashmi. B, Aadhithiya Lakshmi. Extraction of orange oil by improved steam distillation and its characterization studies, 3(2), 2015 1-8.

24. Aliyu Ahmad Warra, Sesame (Sesamumindicuml.) seed oil methods of extraction and its prospects in cosmetic industry: A review, 4(2), 2011; 164-168.

25. International Journal of Advanced Research in Science Communication and Technology 2022; 2(5).

Received on 20.06.2023 Modified on 13.01.2024

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2024; 15(1):13-19.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2024.00003

Tempreature	Evaluation Parameter	Observation (month)
Tempreature	Evaluation Parameter	Week1	Week 2	Week 3	1 month
3-5⁰c	Visual appearance	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish
	Phase separation	Nill	Nill	Nill	Nill
	Homogeneity	Good	Good	Good	Good
Room temperature (25⁰c)	Visual appearance	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish
	Phase separation	Nill	Nill	Nill	Nill
	Homogeneity	Good	Good	Good	Good
40⁰c	Visual appearance	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish	Translucent Brownish
	Phase separation	Nill	Nill	Nill	Nill
	Homogeneity	Good	Good	Good	Good