1.0. INTRODUCTION:

Hair oils are the hair care preparations used for the prevention and treatment of baldness orother ailments, aggression of hair. They also promote the luxurious growth of hairs. Hair oilcontaining herbal drugs are used as hair tonic. Hair care products are categorized into twomain category, hair tonics and hair grooming aids. These are basically the extracts of medicinal plants in an oil base. A plethora of herbs have been employed for hair treatments.

A few of these herbs are amla, henna, neem, methi, lemon, tulsi, brahmi, shikakai, reetha, liquorice root, musk root, mahabhringraj, jantamasi, chitraka, marigold, hibiscus, nutmeg, parsley, rosemary, thyme. Synthetic drug, minoxidil is a potent vasodilator appears safe for long-term treatment. Afterfive years use of 2 and 3% topical minoxidil, the improvement has been shown to peak at oneyear with a slow decline in regrowth over subsequent years. Long-term treatment withlocal side effects may be a problem with continuing used of minoxidil lotion. On thebasis of market survey carried out on crude drugs used presently for herbal hair oils gives usclue for selection of drugs for hair oil. Hence the present study was aimed to evaluate the hairgrowth activity of herbal formulations, which includes oil extract of all mentioned drugs invarious concentrations. In order to justify the traditional claims now a days multi ingredienthair oils are prepared and tested for their hair growth activity. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium whichprovides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair. Hibiscus consists of calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hairgrowth and prevents premature graying of hair. Brahmi contains alkaloids which enhanceprotein kinase activity. Methi contains high protein fodder which supply required proteinnutrition to hair. There are various methods available for the preparation of hair oils direct boiling method, paste method and cloth method. After preparation second main step is evaluation ofpreparation. The next final step is determination of its therapeutic efficacy. Hair is one of the vital parts of our body and it influences the overall appearance of person. Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis. Hair is one of the most important of our body that improves the overall appearance of person. The hair fall, dandruffs, split ends, gray hair are the major problem associated with hair. Hair loss is distressing condition for an increasing number of men and women. Hair loss is or alopecia, is a common patient problems/complaint. And a sopurce of significant psychological and physical distress. To overcome this problems, we use lots of hair care products use. In traditional Indian system of medicine many plants and herbal formulations are reported for hair growth promotion as well as improvement of quality of hair. Herbal care products are defined as those formulation which are used for cleansing, modifying the texture of Hair oils are the hair care preparations used for the prevention and treatment of baldness or other ailments, aggression of hair. Theyalso promote the luxurious growth of hairs. Hair oil containing herbal drugs are used as hair tonic. Hair care products arecategorized into two main category, hair tonics and hair grooming aids. These are basically the extracts of medicinal plants in an oilbase. A plethora of herbs have been employed for hair treatments. A few of these herbs are amla, henna, neem, methi, lemon, tulsi, brahmi, shikakai, reetha, liquorice root, musk root, mahabhringraj, jantamasi, chitraka, marigold, hibiscus, nutmeg. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron andcalcium which provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair. Hibiscus consists of calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growthand prevents premature graying of hair. Brahmi contains alkaloids which enhance protein kinase activity. Methi contains highprotein fodder which supply required protein nutrition to hair. Hair is an epidermal derivative which is one of the vital parts increasing the overall elegance of the body. Hair fall, dandruff, lice, spilt ends, grey hair are few problems involved with hair faced by human. To overcome these, human takes many measures byapplying many cosmetics for each. Hair oil is one among them used to solve almost all of these problems. Herbal cosmetics are in high demand due to the increasing interest of mankind towards them because they are more effective withnil or less side effects, easily available ingredients etc. Hair care cosmetics are now added with herbs and they are well recognizedcompared with synthetic ones. Herbal hair oil is more preferred and is used in many ailments of hair. They promote hair growth, improve elegance of hair andprevent hair fall. Hair oil not only promotes hair growth they also provide necessary moisture to the scalp rendering in beautifulair. The key to hair oil is am emollient that penetrates into the hair and not sits on the surface. Hair oil makes you hair feel wonderful, while it improves the texture and cosmetic appearance of your hair. Hair Oil will help detangle your hair. Detangling is important to be sure you are not physically adding damage to the hair when youcome out of the shower and comb or pick through your hair (please don’t brush through your hair particularly when it is wet andtangled see How to Protect Your Hair). Just like on the stove hair oil can “smoke” so the hair oils need a “smoking temperature” above that of your flat iron or curling iron.^1-7

1.1. Role of Hair Oil⁸

1. Removes Hair Lice For hair lice, hair oil is the best and effective remedy. Just apply the hair oil and all the dirt and lice in your hair will go away.

2. Helps in Hair Growth Hair oil applies on your scalp. It has been said that this helps in the growth of the hair.

3. Smoothness Frizzy Hair oil is act on hair scalp and Improve smoothness of hair.

4. Control the Split Ends The hair splits are extremely irritating and make the hair look unhealthy. The hair oil can help control the formation of splits.

5. Deep Miniaturization The hair oil, along with its great benefits, helps to moisturize your hair. It is a great moisturizer, which also helps us from theharmful UV rays.

6. Boost Blood Flow Hair oil on your hair and gently massaging it into your scalp helps promote blood circulation, in your scalp region, which improvesyour hair health considerably.

7. Fights Hair Fall Regular hair oiling is a good hair loss treatment. It not only helps in preventing and fighting against hair fall but, if done regularlycan completely stop hair loss.

8. Ward off Grays: Hair Oil on your tresses every alternate day will also prevent premature greying.

9. Power to Your Hair Regular oiling of your hair with essential oil strengthens your hair, makes them stronger at the roots, and prevents breakage.

10. Nourishes Hair If hair oil is a regular basis, it reduces split ends, lubricates and nourishes damaged hair and provides elasticity to the hair strandsgiving your locks extra shine.

1.2. Advantages of Poly Herbal Hair Oil⁸:

1.2.1. Prevents Greying and acts as a Protective Sheath

Premature-greying of hair is common in youngsters and adults. It occurs due to lack of vitamins and protein in the food digested. However, there may be reasons genetically that leads to graying of hair. Melanin present in the skin gives hair its color, as it does toskin. Melanin is a skin pigment that decides color of hair. High amount of melanin present in scalp gives dark color to hair while itslack causes graying. It is the deficiency of Vitamin B 12 that results in graying. Regularly oiling and massaging thus helps to retainthe color of your hair, and thus giving you black and shining hair. Also, hairs are prevented from harmful rays of sunlight byforming a protective sheath around the hair protein. UV rays are blocked by the oil that nourishes hair. Nourished hairs are moreresistant to harmful rays.

1.2.2. Prevent Dandruff:

Dandruff is the result of dry scalp. Dry scalp stretches and breaks causing dandruff. Dandruff cause itching on the scalp and at hairroots, thus resulting in hair breakage and hair fall. Dandruff is thus the major cause of hair fall. Environment pollution also plays arole in worsening the situation. Also, lice are likely to grow in such situation. Dandruff leaves scalp and can be found highlightingon dark clothes. These are dead cells that make one embarrassed about one’s personality. Continuous irritation and scratching maygive you bad hair volume. People with dry scalp usually suffer dandruff and should thus massage hair and scalp with good amountof hair oil. Oil secreting glands present at the epidermal cells of scalp produces no or low natural oil in presence of dandruff.

1.2.3 Shine and Luster:

Who doesn’t want shining hair? Shine is the most attractive feature of healthy hair. Hairsshine when they are healthy. By Healthywe means hygiene and nourishment. Hair when destroyed due to heat causes split ends and becomes brittle. The thickness of thehair is lost and is unevenly distributed. Untreated split ends grow giving rough look to hair. Aloe vera along with cold juices andcurd helps in obtaining better shine than before. It can be applied with oil or as a hair mask. Regular oiling keeps hair well strandedin a single thread than like lint of thread. Oil keeps the split hair together and nourishes it from outside thus giving luster and shineto your hair.

1.2.4 Strengthen Hair Protein:

Hair is a protein strand that has its roots beneath the epidermal cells. The hair follicle is nourished by oiling regularly. Hair becomebrittle and leads to baby hair due to weak hair protein. Hair oil such as castor oil, almond oil and olive oil help to regain the oldstrength of the protein. The airshaft is prevented from harm and is nourished. The frizz and brittle nature of hair is reduced with the help of vitamin E which is the major component of the oils used to massage scalp. Strengthened hair falls less with their bulbs andare less vulnerable to heat destruction. Split ends, being the major hair problem is reduced when the hair protein is helped to growfrom root to the tip.

1.2.5. Relaxes Mind and Body:

Massaging scalp and hair with lukewarm oil helps rejuvenate the loss due to chemical treatments. It also relaxes nerves in brain, thus facilitating blood circulation in head area. Regularly oiling hair before washing, and keeping hot towel wrapped around thehead for 2030 minutes will help better absorption by strengthening the roots. Our brain is the origin of all our activities, and oilinghelp to soothe capillaries and nerves in brain. Relaxation of mind and body is done through massaging, and scalp massage is one ofthem. You can use thick oil or lure oil for this. The rapid increase in hair growth in around two months can make you never leavethe habit of massaging scalp regularly.

1.2.6. Prevent Bacterial and Fungal Infections:

Clogging of pores on scalp can have minor to major problems when they get contaminated with bacteria or fungi. These bacteria and fungi provide nourishment and gives suitable environment for hair lice growth and dandruff. And can be the major cause of hairloss or hair fall. If the scalp is getting tender and there are some red spots you must visit a dermatologist. Along with the scalp, haircan get red. Although, bacteria is present all the time but the one mentioned is scalp-friendly. Irritation on scalp and redness can bethe result of some harmful bacteria replacing normal one. Regularly oiling hair with honey gives you anti bacterial treatment andprovides scalp the necessary elements to stay healthy and well hydrate.

1.3.0. Hair Anatomy^18-32

Nearly whole body surface is coated with the hairs except a few areas like palms, soles and mucosal regions of lips and external genitalia. Most of these are tiny, colorless vellus hairs. The ones located in several areas like scalp, eyebrows and eyelashes are thicker, longer and pigmentSed and are called terminal hairs. Humans have approximately 5 million hair follicles and 100,000 of them are located on the scalpBasically terminal hairs are found on scalp, eyebrows and eyelashes at birth while the rest of the body is covered with vellus hairs. In puberty, some vellus hairs (i.e. beard, trunk, axilla and genital area) by the influence of androgens differentiate to terminal hairs, which are long (>2 cm), thick (>60 μm), pigmented and medullated. The bulb of the terminal hairs is located in the subcutaneous fat; however, the bulb of vellus hairs is in the reticular dermis. Vellus hairs are thin (<30μm), short (<2mm) and mostly nonmedullate The hair is classified into three main ethnic subgroups (Asian, African and European). However in a recent study, this classification is expanded to eight main subgroups by considering three parameters: curve diameter, curl index and number of waves. Structural features of the hair follicle have to be considered during the classification process. Hair shaft diameters, hair follicle density and follicular infundibulum volume are some of them. Hair shaft diameters represent little variations and hairs are found to be thicker in androgen dependent areas. Hair follicle density is much more condense in the forehead and follicular infundibular volume is also bigger. It is important just because of the large follicular infundibular volume that is associated with more follicular reservoir ability¹⁸.

1.3.1 Structure of The Hair:

Hair is consisted of two distinct structures: follicle—the living part located under the skin and hair shaft—fully keratinized nonliving part above the skin surface. The arrector pili muscle, takes place between the hair bulge area and dermoepidermal junction. Above the insertion of the arrector pili muscle, sebaceous glands and, in some certain regions, apocrine glands are opened into the follicle. Hair shaft is consisted of three layers: cuticle, cortex and in certain cases medulla. Flat and square-shaped cuticle cells are adhered tightly to the cortex cells proximally. Peripheric movements of cuticle cells make the direction of the distal free edge upward and cause extensive overlapping. These imbrications are crucial. By interlocking with the cuticle cells of inner root sheath, they contribute to the follicular anchorage of the growing hair. These imbricated surfaces also facilitate removal of dirt and desquamated cells from the scalp. Cuticle has also important protective properties and barrier functions against physical and chemical insults. During the migration of the cells from the hair bulb to compose the cortex, the shapes of them become more fusiform. These cells coalesce tightly and are placed parallel to the axis of the shaft. Axial keratin filaments (microfibrils) that are formed from multiple hard α-keratin intermediate filaments (α-KIF) molecules, packs each cortex cells. Several microfibrils come together to form larger units called macrofibril which represents almost 50% of the cortex material. The cortex comprises the bulk of the shaft and also contains melanin Medulla is located in the center of the hair shaft preferably presented in coarser fibers. The hair medulla contains structural proteins that are markedly different from other hair keratins and eosinophilic granules that are filled by an amino acid, citrulline and eventually form internal coatings within the membranes of mature cells. The follicle is the essential growth structure of the hair and basically has two distinct parts: upper part consisting of infundibulum and isthmus whereas the lower part comprising of hair bulb and suprabulbar region. The upper follicle remains constant, while the lower part has continuous cycles of regeneration.

The infundibulum, the uppermost portion of the hair follicle extending from the opening of the sebaceous gland to the surface of the skin, is a funnel-shaped structure filled with sebum, the product of the sebaceous glands. The upper part named acroinfundibulum, the keratinization of epithelium turns into the “epidermal mode”, with formation of stratum granulosum and stratum corneum like a similar manner to epidermis. The Isthmus is the lower portion of the upper part of hair follicle between the opening of the sebaceous gland and the insertion of arrector pili muscle. At the isthmus level, epithelium keratinization begins with the lack of granular layer named “trichilemmal keratinization”. Only few differentiated corneocytes remain and the invagination of the epidermis in this area must be considered as highly permeable for topically applied compounds. Hair follicle stem cells are thought to reside in the bulge area on the isthmus close to the insertion of the arrector muscle. Lineage studies have proven that bulge cells are multipotent and that their progeny generate the new lower anagen hair follicle. One of the most distinguishing features of stem cells is their slow-cycling nature, presumably to conserve their proliferative potential and to minimize DNA errors that could occur during replication. They migrate in a downward direction. On entering the hair bulb matrix, they proliferate and undergo terminal differentiation to form the hair shaft and inner root sheath. They also migrate distally to form sebaceous glands and to proliferate in response to wounding.

The suprabulbar region of the follicle, below the isthmus and above the hair bulb, is comprised of three layers from outermost to innermost: outer root sheath, inner root sheath and hair shaft. Outer root sheath (ORS) extends from the epidermis at the infundibulum and continues to the hair bulb and its cells change considerably throughout the follicle. In the infundibulum, it resembles epidermis, whereas in the isthmus level, ORS cells begin to keratinize in a trichilemmal mode. Keratinocytes in the ORS form the bulge area at the base of the isthmus. At the lower tip of the hair bulb it consists of a single layer of cuboidal cells, becoming multilayered in the region of the upper hair bulb. In some follicles, there is a distinct single cell layer interposed between the outer and inner root sheaths, known as the companion layer. Companion layer cells show numerous intercellular connections to the inner root sheath and are thought to migrated distally along with the inner root sheath to the isthmus region and to form the plane of slippage between the inner and outer root sheaths. The ORS of the hair follicle also contains melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. These cells take place in certain functions of the follicle such as acting as a sensory organ and serving as an immunologic sentinel for the skin. Inner root sheath (IRS) contains three layers: Henle’s layer, Huxley layer and cuticle layer. The innermost layer is the cuticle of IRS whose cells interlock with those of the hair cuticle. This connection, anchoring the hair shaft to the hair follicle, is so tight. The inner root sheath hardens before the presumptive hair within it, and so it is thought to control the definitive shape of the hair shaft. Each of the three layers of IRS undergoes abrupt keratinization. This occurs at different levels in each layer; however, the patterns of change are similar. Keratinization first appears in Henle’s layer, the outermost. Huxley layer is keratinized above the Henle’s layer at the region known as Adamson’s fringe. The IRS coats and supports the hair shaft up to the isthmus level where the IRS disintegrates . The expanded onion-shaped portion of the lower hair follicle, including the hair matrix and the follicular papilla is known as the hair bulb which is the active reproductive portion of the hair follicle. The hair bulb encloses folicular dermal papilla, mucopolysaccharide-rich strome, nerve fiber and capillary loop. The matrix cells are localized to the lowermost portion of the follicle and surround all sides of the follicular papilla. The hair shaft and IRS are derived from the matrix cells. The IRS is derived from the lower and laterally located matrix cells, whereas the hair shaft is originated from upper and centrally located cells. In addition to producing the main structural components of hair, they also produce the hair keratins, and their associated proteins (KAPs). Melanocytes reside among matrix stem cells to produce the pigment of the hair. During their differentiation phase, matrix cells phagocytose melanin or pheomelanin from the dendritic elongations of melanocytes. The hair assumes its color via the amount and the type of the phagocytized major pigment . Follicular papilla, which is derived from a condensation of mesenchymal cells at the early stages of follicular embryogenesis, is one of the most important players during the induction and maintenance of the follicular epithelial differentiation. It is responsible for determining the follicle type. The volume and secretory activity of follicular papilla and also the number of matrix stem cells determine the size of the anagen hair bulb, the duration of anagen phase and the diameter of the hair shaft. Moreover the follicular papilla is an essential source of growth factors.

1.3.2. Molecular Structure:

Keratin proteins can be divided into two major families: the type I (acidic) keratins and the type II (basic-neutral) keratins. About 54 functional keratin genes (28 type I and 26 type II keratins) have been identified to date. There are 11 type I hair keratins, designated K31–K40, and 6 type II hair keratins, designated K81–K86, and the remainder are epithelial keratins. The keratin-associated proteins (KAP), is a large group of proteins which constitutes the matrix of the keratin. The matrix proteins are separated to three major subgroups according to their amino acid compositions. Different hair and epithelial keratins are expressed in the various concentric layers of the hair follicle, with hair keratins found primarily in the cortex and hair cuticle.

1.3.3. Hair follicle innervation and vascularization:

Nerves related to the hair follicle are identical to the dermal nerve network including sensory afferents and autonomic sympathetic nerves. Smaller nerve fibers form a circular layer around the bulge area of terminal follicles and the bulb area of vellus follicles. There are several types of nerve endings associated with the hair follicle: free nerve endings, lanceolate nerve endings, Merkel cells and pilo-Ruffini corpuscles. Each nerve ending responds to distinct stimulus. Free nerve endings transmit pain, lanceolate nerve endings detect acceleration, Merkel cells responsible of pressure sensation and pilo-Ruffini corpuscles detect tension. Perifollicular nerves related neuromediator and neuropeptides, that is, substance P, calcitonin gene-related peptide influence follicular keratinocytes and hair follicle cycling. Cutaneous vascularization is provided by arterioles, which are concentrated at the lower portion of the hair follicle and compose vascular network. During the hair cycle phases, there are some alterations in the density of perifollicular vascularization due to the upregulation of vascular endothelial growth factor expression.

1.3.4. Immunology Of Hair Follicle:

The immunology of hair is very amazing and complicated. The hair follicle represents an immune privileged (IP) site, which is defined basically as a location in the body where foreign tissue grafts can survive for longer periods of time without immune rejection. This specialized immune environment of IP is required to prevent destructive immune reactions in critical regions. Other immune privileged sites include the anterior chamber of the eye, testis, brain and placenta. Hair follicle IP has a unique characteristic of recurring in a cyclic pattern. Until recently, the IP of the hair follicle is considered to be restricted to the matrix region during the anagen phase. However, evidence has accumulated that the IP of the hair follicle extends to the bulge region and is present at this site during the entire hair cycle. Since the bulge represents the hair follicle stem cell niche, sustained IP in this region may be essential for the survival of the follicle. Hair follicle IP occurs during anagen. Thus hair follicle IP is limited to the proximal epithelium of anagen hair follicles. During anagen, melanogenesis is activated in the hair bulb and suggests that hair follicle melanocyte autoantigens play a key role as potential immune targets.

• The hair follicle IP is maintained by several factors:

Downregulation of MHC class I expression in the proximal ORS and matrix cells.

Local production of potent immunosuppressants like TGF-β1, IL-10 and α-MSH.

Functional deterioration of antigen presenting cells.

Absence of lymphatics.

Establishment of extracellular matrix barriers to hinder immune cell trafficking.

Expression of non-classical MHC class 1.

Expression of fast ligand.

1.3.5. Pigmentation Of Hair Follicle:

Hair shaft pigmentation ensures multiple benefits including UV protection, thermoregulation and sexual perceptions. Furthermore, the hair pigment, melanin, is a potent free-radical scavenger. Melanin production inside the active anagen hair bulb may, therefore, help to buffer cell stress induced by reactive oxygen species. In contrast to the continuous melanogenesis observed in epidermal melanocytes, follicular melanogenesis is a cyclic phenomenon. It is ceased in early the anagen-catagen transition, restarted with the down-regulation of key enzymes of melanogenesis, followed by hair follicle melanocyte apoptosis. Hair follicle melanocytes and their precursors reside in the hair matrix and along the outer root sheath of anagen hair follicles. However, production of hair pigment (black eumelanin and/or the reddish pheomelanin) only occurs in the specialized hair follicle pigmentary unit, located above and around the dermal papilla during anagen III–VI. Melanin synthesis is established in lysosome-related organelles named melanosomes. In the precortical matrix, these melanosomes are transferred to the hair shaft keratinocytes and formed a pigmented hair shaft. The hair follicle also contains melanocyte stem cells, which are located in the bulge and in the secondary hair.

1.4.0 Physiology of The Hair^33-38

1.4.1. Hair Growth Cycle:

Hair development is a continuous cyclic process and all mature follicles go through a growth cycle consisting of growth (anagen), regression (catagen), rest (telogen) and shedding (exogen) phases. The duration of the phases changes based on the location of the hair and also personal nutritional and hormonal status and age

1.4.1.1. Anagen:

The inception of anagen phase is presented by the onset of the mitotic activity in the secondary epithelial germ located between the club hair and dermal papilla in telogen hair follicle. The anagen is the active growth phase in which the follicle enlarges and takes the original shape and the hair fiber is produced. Almost 85–90% of all scalp hairs are in anagen.Six portion of the anagen stage is demonstrated. Through the anagen I–V, hair stem cells proliferate, encloses the dermal papilla, grow downwards to the skin and begin to proliferate hair shaft and IRS, respectively. Subsequently, hair matrix melanocytes begin to develop pigment and the form of the hair shaft begins to arise; in anagen VI, hair bulb and adjacent the dermal papilla formation is realized and the new hair shaft appears from the skin. This phase can last up to 6–8 years in hair follicles. Hair shaft synthesis and pigmentation only take place in anagen. The degree of axial symmetry within the hair bulb determines the curvature of the final hair structure. Fiber length is often dependent on the duration of the anagen or actively growing phase of the follicle. The featured regulatory proteins in anagen phase are BMPs, sonic hedgehog, several WNT proteins and receptors. Insulin like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), fibroblast growth factor-7 hepatic growth factor (HGF), and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) are thought to be important for anagen maintenance.

1.4.1.2. Catagen:

At the end of anagen, mitotic activity of the matrix cells is diminished and the follicle enters a highly controlled involutionary phase known as catagen. Catagen lasts approximately 2 weeks in humans, regardless of the site and follicle type. During catagen the proximal of the hair shaft is keratinized and forms the club hair, whereas the distal part of the follicle is involuted by apoptosis. Catagen phase is consisted of eight different stages. The first sign of catagen is the termination of melanogenesis in the hair bulb. Follicular epithelium, mesenchyme, neuroectodermal cell populations and also perifollicular vascular and neural systems demonstrates cyclic changes in differentiation and apoptosis. However, any apoptosis is occurred in dermal papilla due to the expression of suppressor bcl-2. Catagen is a process of bulbar involution. The perifollicular sheath collapses and vitreous membrane thickens. Eventually, the lower hair follicle becomes reduced to an epithelial strand, bringing the dermal papilla into close proximity of the bulge. The epithelial strand begins to elongate and finally reaches to just below the insertion of pilar muscle. After the keratinization of the presumptive club hair, the epithelial strands begin to involute and shorten progressively followed by the papilla which condenses, moves upward and locates to rest below the bulge. The column eventually reduces to a nipple and forms secondary hair germ below the club. The club hair itself is formed from cortical and cuticle cells only, and it is characterized by a lack of pigmentation. The presence of hairless gene mutation contributes to the failure of dermal papilla migration toward the bulge area in catagen phase . FGF5 is a key inducer of catagen and FGF5-deficient mice have a prolonged anagen phase. In addition to FGF5, TGF-β1, IL-1b, the neurotrophins NT-3, NT-4 and BMP2/4 and TNF-α have been described to induce catagen.

1.4.1.3. Telogen:

The telogen stage is defined as the duration between the completion of follicular regressionand the onset of the next anagen phase. Telogen stage lasts for 2–3 months. Approximately 10–15% of all hair is in telogen stage. During the telogen stage, the hair shaft is transformed to club hair and finally shed. The follicle remains in this stage until the hair germ which is responsive to anagen initiating signals from the dermal papilla, starts to show enhanced proliferative and transcriptional activity in late telogen, leading to the initiation of anagen . Telogen is one of the main targets of hair cycle which is influenced by several modulatory agents like androgens, prolactin, ACTH, retinoids and thyroid hormones. No unique molecular markers associated with the telogen follicle are determined yet; however, estrogen receptor expression is reported to be limited to the telogen papilla fibroblasts. Germ cells of telogen follicles also express basonuclin and FGF-5. The bone morphogenic protein-4 (BMP-4) as a growth factor plays an essential role in suppressing follicular growth and differentiation at telogen stage. The macro-environment surrounding the hair follicle also takes part in regulating cycle transitions. BMPs in the subcutaneous fat are capable of maintaining follicles in a“refractory” telogen, and cessation of this inhibitory activity by BMPs enables the follicle to progress to a “competent” telogen with a hair germ that is responsive to anagen-initiation signals and capable of entering a new anagen phase.

1.4.1.4. Exogen:

There is less interest for the mechanism of the hair shedding but from the patient’s perspective it is probably the most important part of the hair growth. It is not unusual for human telogen hairs to be retained from more than one follicular cycle and this suggests that anagen and exogen phases are independent. The shedding period is believed to be an active process and independent of telogen and anagen thus this distinct shedding phase is named exogen.

1.5. Hair Cycle Clock:

Based on the observations: the hair follicle has no need for intact innervation, vascularization or other extrafollicular components to maintain cycling, and the basic oscillator system which controls hair cycling is located presumably in the follicle. The principal challenge is to define the underlying “oscillator” system. Probably, the hair cycle clock is controlled by regulating the balance of the interactions between the follicle epithelium and the surrounding mesenchyme. This might be provided by the rhythmic secretions of growth/modulatory signals from follicle epithelium or mesenchyme as well as the rhythmic alterations in the expressions of corresponding receptors.

1.6.0. Introduction of Scalp^39-41

The condition of the hair plays an important role in our physical appearance and selfperception. The quantity, quality, and styling of our hair define our gender, age, health, and social status. There are no significant differences in the number of hair follicles between men and women, or between the different races. Differences in the appearance of hair are due to the type of hair produced by the follicle and the type of hair care practiced by the individual. Conventionally, the medical focus has been either on hair loss or the condition of the scalp in terms of specific dermatological conditions. In fact, the proximate structural arrangement of the scalp and hair leads to an interdependent relationship between the two. The protective benefits of the hair to the scalp, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) screening, moisture retention, and mechanical shielding, are obvious, while the role of the scalp as an incubatory environment for the preemergent hair fiber is often overlooked. It is the aim of this article to provide evidence that the condition of the scalp affects the natural growth and retention of hair, and consequently that appropriate scalp care may deliver fundamental benefits for hair growth and its quality. Preemergent hair can be negatively impacted by the oxidative stress that occurs with an unhealthy scalp, possibly due to the incubatory environment, specifically the metabolic activity of resident microbes. Therefore, hair care products with active agents that reduce the population of respective microbes and restore a healthy scalp while reducing the associated oxidative stress may have an impact on hair health.

1.6.1. The Scalp in Health and Disease:

The scalp is the anatomical area bordered by the face at the front and by the neck at the sides and back. It is characterized by a usually high density of terminal hair growth with numerous sebaceous glands that contribute to a specific microenvironment with significant differences from the rest of the skin. The scalp is a rich environment for microbes. Ecologically, sebaceous areas have greater species richness than dry ones, with implications both for skin physiology and pathologic conditions. Specifically, dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and ultimately alopecia represent pathologic conditions, in which oxidative stress is very commonly detected. Quantitation of lipid peroxidation is a particularly prevalent method in dermatology to detect the underlying oxidative stress.

1.6.2. Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis:

The specific anatomic features of the scalp skin, such as the large number of terminal hair follicles and the enlarged epidermal surface due to numerous hair canals, contribute to a specific microenvironment of the scalp and higher rate of exfoliation. Even a normal scalp will develop some degree of flaking within 1 or 2 weeks if the hair is not washed, while pathological dandruff results from accelerated proliferation of epidermal cells. This leads to a breakdown of the normal columnar structure of the stratum corneum with increased exfoliation of variously large collections of abnormally keratinizing epidermal cells and formation of cell aggregates, which determine the size of the flakes. The process results from focal inflammation of the scalp with parakeratosis which causes abnormal exfoliation and an altered light refractive index of the keratinized cell aggregates. The clinical appearance of dandruff is determined by the size, adherence, and light refractive characteristics of the flakes. Among the factors that lead to inflamed patches on the scalp are microbial colonization with Malassezia fungi, sebaceous lipids, and individual sensitivity. Seborrheic dermatitis represents a chronic recurrent condition characterized by scaling and poorly defined erythematous patches, with a predilection for areas rich in sebaceous glands. In contrast to dandruff, in seborrheic dermatitis, the redness and scaling frequently extend beyond the scalp to include the folds of the nose and eyebrow areas. The cause of seborrheic dermatitis is again understood to involve fungi of the genus Malassezia.Therefore, there seems to exist a pathogenic link with dandruff that is understood to represent the mildest form of the clinical presentation of seborrheic dermatitis.

The scalp microbiome consists primarily of Propionibacteria, Staphylococcus bacteria, and Malassezia yeast. Malassezia are responsible for essentially the entire scalp mycobiome. The inflammatory process is believed to be mediated by fungal metabolites, specifically free fatty acids released from sebaceous triglycerides. Both dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis have clear signs of oxidative stress as indicated by perturbed surface and systemic antioxidant enzyme levels. There have also been observations from surface samples of elevated lipid peroxidation accompanying dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.

1.6.3. Psoriasis:

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory condition of the scalp, and the most thoroughly studied skin condition linking oxidative stress, the role of Malassezia spp., and risk of hair loss. In contrast to seborrheic dermatitis, the condition is characterized by sharply demarcated erythematosquamous lesions with silver-white scaling. The most dramatic expression of the immune-mediated condition is tumor necrosis factor-alpha inhibition – treatment-induced psoriasiform dermatitis of the scalp with the risk of permanent alopecia from scarring. Overgrowth of the scalp with Malassezia spp. Is again a well-known feature of scalp psoriasis. Indicators of oxidative stress in psoriasis include altered antioxidant enzymes, oxidized proteins, as well as oxidized lipids.

1.6.4. Atopic Dermatitis:

Atopic dermatitis is yet another common, chronic, relapsing, inflammatory skin disorder that may affect the scalp in a significant manner. Its pathogenesis is complex and involves genetics, environmental factors, disrupted permeability of the skin, and immunologic mechanisms. A subset of patients with head-and-neck dermatitis may have a reaction to resident Malassezia flora exacerbating their condition. This reaction is likely related to both Humoral- and cell-mediated immunity. Even in the absence of differences in Malassezia spp. Colonization, patients with head-and-neck atopic dermatitis are more likely to have positive skin prick test results and Malassezia-specific IgE compared to healthy controls and to patients with atopy without head-and-neck dermatitis. Again, atopic dermatitis is a condition that is strongly associated with oxidative stress: quantitation of urinary indicators of stress is elevated, as are oxidized surface protein levels, which in addition may be exacerbated by environmental impacts.

1.6.5.Scalp Aging^42-43

Aging of the scalp underlies the same principles as aging of the skin, except for a natural protection from UVR depending on the amount of scalp hair. Aging represents the accumulation of changes over time, involving both programmed factors and damage-related factors (nonprogrammed factors). Programmed factors follow a biological timetable, perhaps a continuation of the one that regulates childhood growth and development. This regulation would depend on changes in gene expression that affect the systems responsible for maintenance, repair, and defense responses. Damage-related factors include internal and environmental assaults that induce cumulative damage at various levels. Aging of the hair itself affects hair color (graying), hair production (alopecia), and structural properties of the hair fiber (hair diameter, hair fiber curvature, stretching, bending, and torsional rigidity of the hair fiber, and lipid composition), with its consequence for the manageability and overall appearance of hair. In contrast, the aging effects on nonbalding scalp are relatively unnoticed. Underneath the hair, the scalp may appear pale and dry, with a certain degree of laxity. In contrast, balding scalp exhibits the features of photo-aged skin, including irregular pigmentation, wrinkling, atrophy, telangiectasia, and findings of cutaneous premalignant and malignant diseases, such as actinic keratosis, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. Onset of solar elastosis of the scalp precedes the onset of hair loss in androgenetic alopecia, providing the evidence that scalp hair does not completely protect from the effects of UVR and the need for added scalp UVR protection. Other aging features seen in the sun-damaged scalp include variability in thickness and cellularity in epidermis, unevenly distributed melanocytes, and increased inflammatory cells in the dermis. Due to the decrease in volume and elasticity, the skin becomes thinner and more easily damaged. Moreover, aging skin receives less blood flow and exhibits lower glandular activity. The net result of these effects is the decreasing ability of skin to heal itself, with an increase of skin pathologies.

Remarkably, aging does not appear to follow a perfectly regular course over time. Periods of stability, or even partial remission, alternated with periods of more marked evolution, reflecting perhaps the influence of individual factors such as the individual’s general health and nutritional status, life style and hygiene, and risk factors for accelerated aging.

1.6.6. The Effect of Scalp Care On Hair Growth and Quality^44-45:

Until the introduction of the first nonalkaline shampoos in 1933, soap was the only available cleanser for the hair and scalp. Today, shampoos are expected to be more than mere cleansing agents. They are expected to improve the hair cosmetically while being tailored to the needs of various hair types, age, and scalp condition. Finally, with respect to product comfort, shampoos are expected to not dry out the hair, to produce lather in hard and soft water and, when applied to oily hair, to be nonirritating to skin and mucous membranes, to be chemically and physically stable, to be biodegradable, and affordable. Accordingly, shampoos have evolved into high-tech products consisting of ten to thirty ingredients that are combined in precise formulations to meet consumer demands. Ultimately, shampoo treatments are the most commonly used means of managing hair and scalp conditions and have proven to be effective for the treatment of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis of the head-and-neck type. Today, it is understood that scalp care products for dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis exert their benefits by controlling scalp Malassezia levels. Given the observations on the role of oxidative stress in premature hair loss and the part that Malassezia spp. Play in generating oxidative stress, it is likely that products with Malassezia control active would exert some hair loss prevention benefits. Originally, Piérard et al. hypothesized on a microbial-driven inflammatory reaction abutting on the hair follicles and performed a pilot study with twenty males using an 0.25% octopirox leave-on product and demonstrated that the product improved the semi-quantitative self-assessment of hair loss over a 1.5-year treatment period. Subsequently, Piérard-Franchimont et al. conducted a study to compare the effect of 2% ketoconazole shampoo to that of an unmedicated shampoo used in combination with or without 2% minoxidil therapy for male androgenetic alopecia and found that hair density and size and proportion of anagen follicles were improved almost similarly by both ketoconazole and minoxidil regimens, even in the absence of dandruff. The authors concluded that there may be a significant action of ketoconazole upon the course of androgenetic alopecia and that Malassezia spp. Play a role in the Inflammatory reaction.

2.0. LITRETURE REVIEW:

Mr. Badeviks et al 2021In the present study herbal Hair oils were formulated. Hair is one of the vital parts of the body and a protective appendage on the body and considered accessory structure of integument along with sebaceous glands, sweat glands and nails. Hair oils are widely used by the consumer of the cosmetic industries. The hair oil samples comply for the requirements of color, odour, PH, Viscosity, Density, acid value. Present investigation was undertaken to standardize the selected herbal hair oils on physicochemical parameters and some standard. Excellent results were seen in formulation prepared by boiling method of oils preparation technique.

Neha N Jagatap et al 2021 The aim of present study involves preparation of polyhedral hair oil using acceptable limits. Such as photochemical screening, organoleptic characterization, specific gravity, pH, viscosity, acid value, saponification value, refractive index, and also stability study. Antimicrobial assay of the polyherbal hair oil was studied by the zone inhibition method. And these helps reduce dandruffs and scalp of hairs. And to provide nutrition’s of hairs. The antioxidant activity of the oil was studied by DPPHradical scavenging activity. The primary skin irritation test is carried out. Hence, these polyherbal hair oil increases hair growth, reduces hair loss, providing protection against dandruff. Nowa-days increasing demand of herbal formulation than synthetic formulation. They have better safety and also fewer side effects. Polyherbal hair oil using various fresh leaves ofHibiscus Rosa Sinesis, Aloe Barbadensis leaf, curry leaves, amla, shikekai. These formulations coconut oil as the base. Hair care products used both hairtonic as well as hair grooming aids.

Sapna Gautam et al 2012 The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization. So, they use various beauty products that have herbs to look charming and young. Herbal cosmetics are now-a-dayswidely used by the common people because of concept of fewer side effects and with a better safety andsecurity profile. The present work was aimed to formulate herbal oil for general purpose (application in hairs) using various herbs. The formulated herbal oil was evaluated and various parameters such asviscosity, saponification value, pH etc. were determined and are reported in this paper.

Pooja S Banerjee et al 2009 Herbal formulations always have attracted considerable attention because of their goodactivity and comparatively lesser or nil side effects with synthetic drugs. The objective of present study involves preparation of herbal hair oil using amla, hibiscus, brahmi, methi andits evaluation for increase in hair growth activity. Each drug was tested for their hair growthactivity in a concentration range for 1-10% separately. Based on these results mixture ofcrude drugs fruits of Embelica officinalis, flowers of Hibiscus rosa sinensis, leaves of Bacopamonnieri and seeds of Trigonella foenumgraecum were prepared in varying concentration in the form of herbal hair oil by three different oils preparation techniques (direct boiling, pasteand cloth method) and were tested for hair growth activity. The oil of different concentrationswere characterized for proximate analysis including moisture content, total ash, acidinsoluble ash, water soluble ash, water insoluble ash, sulphated ash. The formulations werealso subjected to chromatographic determination and chemical tests to determine the presenceof active constituents in the drugs. But looking towards the formulation viscosity the maximum concentration of combined drug was found to be 30% at their maximum level. The formulation containing 7.5% of each drug used for the study and showed excellent hairgrowth activity with standard (2% minoxidil ethanolic solution) by an enlargement offollicular size and prolongation of the anagen phase. It holds the promise of potent herbal alternative for minoxidil. Excellent results of hair growth were seen in formulation preparedby boiling method of oils preparation technique.

Pushpendra Kumar jain et al 2016 Herbs and herbal drugs are clinically proved good for hair growth. Hair loss problem is of great concern to both males and females and the main problems associated with hair loss arehair fading, dandruff and falling of hair. Various synthetic medicines are available for hair loss which does not treat permanently and also shows severe side effects. The main objective of thiswork is to develop such an herbal hair oil formulation which can resolve the problem related tohair fall and other hair diseases. Herbal drugs like Emblica officinalis, Bacopa monniera and Cyperusrotundus were selected for the formulations of poly herbal hair oil. The hair oil was prepared individually and in a varying concentration of all three herbs and a mixture of all the three herbs in fixed proportion using coconut oil as base. The formulated oil in varying concentration was evaluated physical, chemical and hair growth properties of formulated oil byapplying it topically on shaved skin of albino rats. Primary skin irritation test, hair length testwere performed and the hair growth was compared with standard Minoxidil 2% ethanolicsolution using healthy albino rats. It was observed that hair oil formulation (HF3) showed thebest result among the other formulation evaluated by showing an enlargement of follicular sizeand prolongation of the anagen phase.

Amol Joshi et al 2017 This study aimed at reviewing the importance of polyherbal hair oil for the treatment of common hair problems such as baldness, alopecia, hair fall, gray hair, dryness, and most common dandruff. Materials and Methods: Thevarious herbal ingredients are used in the formulation are: Amla, Bhringraj, Yashtimadhu, Triphala, Henna, Neem, Aloe vera, hibiscus flowers, coconut oil, cow milk, grated coconut, and water. All ingredients provide essentialnutrients such as vitamin, antioxidant, protein, terpenoids, and many essential oils to maintain normal function of sebaceous glands. Procedure for oil preparation is divided into two parts: (1) preparation of decoction of all theherbs and (2) oil preparation. Results and Discussion: Excellent results of hair growth were seen in formulation prepared by the abovementioned procedure. Formulated herbal oil was evaluated for various parameters such asspecific gravity, viscosity, acid value, saponification value, pH, and irritation tests. Conclusion: In general, herbal formulation provides good blend of vitamins, antioxidants, terpenoids, and essential oils. All the values in theevaluation of finished product showed that they are within the acceptable limits. Hence, it is concluded that the oilis beneficial in maintaining good growth of hairs, turning gray hairs to black, providing protection from dandruff, and results in lustrous hairs.

3.0. NEED AND OBJECTIVE:

Need:

To Prepare of Hair Oil Primarily to achieve desired bioavailability of micronutrient the Crude Drug comes under the class of cosmetic

· It is Strengthens the hair

· It protect the hair from heat damage

· It stimulate hair growth

· It hydrate the hair and prevents frizz

Oil play an important role in protecting hair from regular wear and tear oiling hair regularly reduce hygral fatigue or the swelling and drying of hair oil protect from the follicle from surfactant by filling the gap between cuticle cells oil help in scalp health

Objectives:

1) To collect information about Marketed herbal hair oils.

2) To prepare polyherbal hair oil.

3) To explore the use of Rose Petal,Bhringraj, Menthaand Amla.

4) To study evaluation of hair oil such as Ph, Viscosity, Density, Refractive index, Acid value, Saponification value.

5) To achieve best formula for the hair oil using herbal ingredients.

6) To reduce side effects of chemical formulation.

7) To imparting gloss to hair and to maintain their manageability and oiliness for hair

4.0. PLAN OF WORK

• Literature Survey

• Selection of Polyherbal Ingredients

• Collection of Polyherbal Ingredients

• To form Powder of polyherabal Ingredients

• Evaluation of powder characterstics

• Selection of oil for extraction

• Selection of extraction Method

• Extraction of crude drug

• Preparation of polyherbal hair oil

• Characterisation of hair oil

• Result and discussion

• Compilation of data

5.0. DRUG AND THEIR PROFILE:

5.1. Composition of Hair Oil.

1. Amla

2. Hibiscus flower

3. Methi seeds

4. Bhringraj

5. Mint

6. Alovera

7. Tulsi

8. Rose petal

9. Lotus

10. Coconut oil

5.1.1 Amla (EmblicaOfficinalis)⁹

1) Description: Amla is highly valued by nutritionists and Ayurvedic practitioners alike. For those of you who haven’t heardabout Ayurveda, it’s a 5000 year old natural healing system of medicine that is indigenous to India. In India, it is common to eatthe Amla or Indian gooseberries in the pickle format. It is probably the most important natural source of vitamin C, which iseasily absorbed by the digestive system. The Indian gooseberry or Amla ripens in autumn, around October till December and iscommonly harvested by hand after climbing to the branches bearing the fruits.

2) Synonyme: Emblica, Indian goose berry, amlaki,

3) Biological Source: It consist of dried as well as fresh fruits of plant Emblica officinalis gaerth.

4) Family: “Euphorbiaceae”

5) Chemical Constituent It also mainly contains vitamin-c. also present tannins.

It contains Pectin and 75% Moisture, fat and phyllemblin. Also present phosphorus, iron and calcium.

5 Uses of Amla:

a) Amla is used to revitalising potency and the digestive system, rejuvenating longevity, treat constipation.

b) Reduce fever, purify the blood, reduce cough, alleviate asthma, strengthen the heart, benefit the eyes, stimulate hair growth, enliven the body.

c) Amla is considered an effective remedy for heart disease.

d) Amla is helpful in tuberculosis of lungs, asthma, and bronchitis.

e) Amla prevents ageing and maintains strength in old age.

f) Amla helps enriching hair growth and hair pigmentation.

g) Amla improves immunity and protects from common cough and cold

5.1.2 Hibiscus Rosasinesis [10]

· Biological source-dried leaves of hibiscus Rosa sinesis.

· Family-Malvaceae.

· Uses – Nourishes and thickens hair. Emollient, braintonic, growth of hair, blackening of hair, Lusterofhair ,laxative, skin diseases, menorrhagia, treatmentof bronchial catarrh, antiscorbutic, depurative. Plant part used-Leaf

5.1.3.Aloe Vera[11]

· Biological Source- Dried leaves of aloe barbadensismiller

· Family-Liliaceae

· Uses- Conditioner and moisturizing effect, removedandruff, boost hair growth, nourishing the hair. Combination of aloe pulp and coconut oil are richvitamins and minerals. These oil used as hair andscalp gives healthy, strong antidandruff free hair (antidandruff activity of the hair.) Plant part used- whole plant.

5.1.4. Coconut Oil¹²

· Biological source- Oil is derived from dried fruits ofCocus nucifera.

· Family-Arecaceae

· Uses- Nourishes of hair, moisturizing effect vehicle, stimulates hair growth by unclogging poers. Plant part used-Fruit

5.1.5. Bhiringraj (E. alba, Asteraceae)

· Part Used: Whole part

· Uses: Promoting hair growth, hair nourishment, antidandruff

5.1.6. Methi Seeds¹³

Kingdom Plante

Family Fabaceae

Genus Trigonella

Species foenum-graecum

General name Fenugreek

English name Fenugreek

Arabic name Hhulbah, Hhelbah

Indian name Sagmethi, Methi, Kasurimethi

Fig. no 1

· Biological Source –Methiconsist of a dried ripe seed of Trigonenella foenum grace cum¹⁴

5.1.7. Mentha:

· Synonym- Papermint, pudina

· Biological Source – It is volatile obtain by steam distillation of fresh flowering lops of plant Family – Labiatae

5.1.8. Tulsi [15-16]

Order Lamiales

Family Lamiaceae

Genus Ocimum

Species O. tenuiflorum

Binomial name OcimumtenuiflorumL.

Synonyms Ocimum sanctum

· Chemical composition:

Some of the phytochemical constituents of tulsi are oleanolic acid, ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, eugenol, carvacrol, linalool, β-caryophyllene (about 8%). Tulsi essential oil consists mostly of eugenol (~70%) β-elemene (~11.0%), β-caryophyllene (~8%) and germacrene (~2%), with the balance being made up of various trace compounds, mostly terpenes. [24]

· Medicinal Properties:

Antispasmodic, appetizer, carminative, galactagogue, stomachic. Basil is antispasmodic, appetizer, carminative, galactagogue, and stomachic. It is used for stomach cramps, gastric catarrh, vomiting, intestinal catarrh, constipation, and enteritis. It had been sometimes used for whooping cough as an antispasmodic.

1. Tulsi has antioxidant properties and reduces blood glucose levels. Thus it is useful for diabetics.

2. Tulsi reduces total cholesterol levels. Thus it is useful for heart disease patients.

3. Tulsi reduces blood pressure.

4. Tulsi is also used to prepare herbal tea. It helps in building up stamina.

5. It has been used for gastric disorders, cough, common colds, malaria, and headaches.

6. It is used as mouth wash for reducing tooth ache

7. Tulsi oil shows larvicidal activity against malarial larva.

8. It has immuno-modulatory properties.

9. It contains phyto-chemicals which provide all these beneficial effects.

10. Many herbal cosmetics contain tulsi. It is also used in skin ointments due to its anti bacterial properties. Oil extracted from KarpooraTulsi is used in these preparations.

11. Tulsi acts as insect repellant. So it is used to store grains.

12. Recent research shows that tulsi does have analgesic (pain killer) properties similar to COX 2 inhibitor drugs.

13. Ursolic acid, a chemical in tulsi may have a role as antifertility (contraceptive) agent in future.

14. It has antiviral, antibacterial, antitubercular, antifungal, antimalarial properties

Medicinal uses of Tulsi:

1] Antibiotic Protection:

Antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal protection and is, thereby, helpful in treating many serious systemic diseases, as well as localized infections. Heart and Vascular Protection Lowers dangerous cholesterol and stress related high blood pressure, protects the heart and blood vessels, and has mild blood thinning qualities, thereby decreasing the likelihood of strokes.

2] Liver Support:

Liver function, improves the metabolic breakdown and elimination of dangerous chemicals in the blood, and counteracts various liver diseases. Tulsi has been shown to be helpful in the treatment of a variety of serious allergic, inflamatory and infectious disorders affecting the lungs and related tissues.

3] Nutrition:

Contains vitamins C and A, and minerals calcium, zinc and iron, as well as chlorophyll and many other phytonutrients. Also enhances the efficient digestion, absorption and use of nutrients from food and other herbs.

4] Allopathic Medicine Complement:

Enhances the effectiveness and reduces the negative and often dangerous side effects of many standard modern medical treatments. Other Benefit Lowers fevers, protects against gastric ulcers, reduces dangerous blood sugar levels in diabetics, and supports dental and periodontal health. Also protect against mercury poisoning.

5] High Safety Margin:

Research indicates that Tulsi has a very high safety margin with exceptionally low toxicity, providing general beneficial effects at doses without adverse reactions or other undesirable side effects.

6] Antimicrobial effects:

Itinhibites the growth of E coli, B.anthracis, M.tuberculosis etc. It’s antitubercular activity is one-tenth the potency of streptomycin and one-fourth that of isoniazid. Preparations containing Tulsi extract significantly shorten the course of illness, clinical symptoms and the biochemical parameters in patients with viral hepatitis and viral encephalitis.

7] Antimalarial effects:

Essential oil of Tulsi has been reported to possess 100% larvicidal activity against the Culex mosquitoes.it extracts have marked insecticidal activity against mosquitoes. It’ srepellant action lasts for about two hour

8] Antiallergic and Immunomodulator effects:

When administered to laboratory animals, the compound was found to inhibit mast cell degranulation and histamine release in the presence of allergen. These studies reveal the potential role of Ocimum sanctum extracts in the management of immunological disorders including allergies and asthma.

9] Anti diabetic effect:

Decline in postprandial blood glucose on treatment with Tulsi as compared to the blood glucose levels during treatment with placebo.

10] Antifertility effect:

This effect has been attributed to it’santiestrogenic effect which may be responsible for arrest of spermatogenesis in males and inhibitory effect on implantation of ovum in females. This constituent may prove to be a promising antifertility agent devoid of side effects

5.1.9. Rose Petal¹⁷

Biological Source – A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over three hundred species and tens of thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing, or trailing, with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles

5.1.10. Lotus:

Family Name – Nelumbonaceae

Synonyms – Word Hippo Thesaurus.

Biological Source – It has a very long history (c. 3,000 years) of being cultivated for its edible seeds, and it is commonly cultivated in water gardens. It is the national flower of India and Vietnam.

6.0. MATERIAL AND METHODOLOGY:

6.1. Material:

6.1.1. Crude Drug Used In Polyherbal Hair Oil:

1. Amla

2. Hibiscus flower

3. Methi seeds

4. Bhringraj

5. Mint

6. Alovera

7. Tulsi

8. Rose petal

9. Lotus

10. Coconut oil

6.1.2. Equipment Used In Polyherbal Hair Oil:

1. Heating Mental

2. Oven

3. Weighing Balance

6.1.3. Appratus used in Polyherbal Hair Oil:

1. Beaker

2. Measuring Cylinder

3. Pipette

4. Spatula

5. Stirrer

6. RBF

7. Condenser

8. Ostwald Viscometer

9. Gravity Bottle

10 Iodine Flask

11. Burette

6.2. Method for Prepration Hair Oil:

6.2.1. Collection and Authentication of Plant Material

The Polyherbal hair oil was prepared by collecting and using various plant materials these are

1. Amla

2. Hibiscus flower

3. Methi seeds

4. Mint

5. Alovera

6. Tulsi

7. Rose petal

8. Lotus

9. Coconut oil are collected local region near Dondaicha. Collected plants were identified by Dept. Of Cognosy, Ahinsa Institute of Pharmacy Dondaicha.The collected leaves, Flower were dried in the shade and then powder to coarse consistency and stored in an air tight container at room temperature.⁴⁶

6.2.2. Formulation of Hair Oil⁴⁷

The various ingredients used in the formulation of herbal oil are presented in Table

Accurately weigh all the dried and fresh herbs such as Amla Hibiscus flower, Methi seeds, Bhringraj, Mint, Alovera, Tulsi, Rose petal, Lotus and were grinded in the mixture and was mixed in Coconut oil. The above content was boiled for 15 min. and was filtered through muslin cloth. The filtrate coconut oil was added to make up the volume (100mL) and it was placed in Transperent bottle.

6.3.0. Evaluation of Polyhebal Hair Oil⁴⁸

6.3.1. Physical Evaluation:

In the test, the herbal oil was observed for colour, odor, physical state, solubility, specific gravity, PH, viscosity, refractive index, acid value and saponification value. Were determined manually.

1. Viscosity:

Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either stress or tensional stress.

It canbe determined by following:-

Procedure

a) Thoroughly clean the viscometer.

b) Mount the viscometer in vertical position on a suitable stand.

c) Fill dry viscometer upto g mark.

d) Count the time required in seconds for hair oil sample to flow from mark A to B. e) Repeat three times.

e) Determine the densities of the liquids.

2. Density:

Density of material is defined as its mass per unit volume. It is determined by following formula, Density= mass of oil/volume of oil in specific gravity bottle

3. Refractive Index:

The refractive index n, of a medium is defined as the ratio of the velocity c of a wave phenomenopn such aslight or sound in a reference medium to the phase velocity, Vp in the medium itself.

4. Colour

To check prepare herbal hair oil colour

5. Odour To Observe Prepare Herbal Hair Oil Odour

6. PH: The PH Of Herbal Oil Determination of Using PH Meter

6.3.2. Chemical Evaluation:

1) Acid value:

Acid value is the mass of potassium hydroxide in milligrams that is required to neutralize one gram of chemical substance. The acid number is a measure of the amount of carboxylic acid groups in a chemical compound, such as fatty acid, or in a mixture of compounds. The acid number is used to quantify the amount of acid present, in a oil sample. It is the quantity of base, mexpressed in milligrams of potassium hydroxide that is required to neutralize the acidic constituents in 1 gm of sample.

Procedure:

a) Weigh accurately 0.5 gm of acid sample; add it to a mixture of 10 ml of alcohol and 10 ml of ether. If acid does not dissolve ina solvent mixture, warm it on water bath until it dissolves.

b) Titrate solution of acid against 0.1 N sodium hydroxide and phenolphthalein as the indicator.

c) Carry out blank titration by omitting the substance.

d) Take readings and calculate acid value using formula.

Acid value= 5.61*n/w.

Where, n= no. of ml of 0.1 N NaOH required.

W= weight of substance in gm.

2) Saponification Value:

Saponification value represents the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxiderequired to saponify 1g of fat under the condition specified. It is a measure of the average molecular weight of all the fatty acid present. The long chain fatty acids found in fats have low saponification value because they have a relatively fewer no. Ofcarboxylic functional groups per unit mass of the fat as compared to short chain fatty acids. If more base are required to saponify N grams of fat then there are more Moles of the fat the chain lengths are relatively small.

Procedure:

a) Weigh accurately 0.5 gm of fatty acid ester and transfer in to round bottom flask add 15 ml of alcoholic potassium hydroxide toit and reflux for about an hour.

b) Reflux separately 15 ml of alcoholic potassium hydroxide on boiling water bath for about an hour as blank reading.

c) Cool bath and titrate separately against 0.5 N Hydrochloric acid using phenolphthalein as indicator.

d) Carry out blank titration omitting substance.

e) Take reading and calculate Saponification value.

Saponification value= 28.05(b-a)*w Where, a= ml of KOH required to neutralize the substance b= ml of KOH required for blank. W= weight of substance in gm.

3) Primary Skin Irritation Test:

The prepared formulations were assessed for primary skin irritation test. Six healthy rats wereselected for the study. Each rat was caged individually food and water given during the test period 24 hrs prior to the test. The hair from the back of each rat of 1cm2 was shaved on the side of the spine to expose sufficiently large test areas, which could accommodate three test sites were cleaned with surgical sprit. Measured quantity (1ml) (5% w/w) of the formulations OD1, OD2 and OD3 were applied over the respective test sites on one side of the spine and observed for erythema and edema for 48hrs after application.

4) Sensitivity Test:

The Prepare Herbal Oil Was Applied 1 cm on skin of hand Exposed to Sunlight for 4-5 Min

7.0. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

Herbal hair oil is one of the most well recognized hair treatments. Herbal hair oil not only moisturizes scalp but also reverses dry scalp and dry hair condition. It provides numerous essential nutrients required to maintain normal function of sebaceous glands and promotes natural hair growth. The herbal hair oil was prepared from various herbs and their importance in the formulation. The various parameters like sensitivity test, viscosity, pH, acid value of herbal hair oil was evaluated. Hence, from the present investigation it was found that the formulated herbal hair oil has optimum standards and further standardization and biological screening establishes the efficacy of formulated herbal hair oil.

8.0. CONCLUSION:

All the parameters showed that they are within the limits and since all the ingredients added have many advantages, this oil will help in maintaining good growth of hair, turning grey hair to black, protects from dandruff and results in lustrous looking hair. The samples complies the requirements for acid value, Saponification value, Viscosity, Density, Refractive Index. The various constituents of the herbal extracts such as Amla Hibiscus flower, Methi seeds, Mint, Alovera may be significant hair growth activity.

9.0. REFERENCE:

1. Kokate C.K, Purohit A.P and Gokhale S.B. Pharmacognosy, Nirali Publication.

2. Indian Pharmacopoeia- 1996, Ministry Of Health And Family Welfare, Controller Of Publications, Govt. Of India, Volume 1: A- 78 Ions.

3. Roy, R. K., Thakur, M., Dixit, V. K., Development And Evaluation Of Polyherbal Formulation For Hair Growth- Promoting Activity, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Nov2006, 6, 108-112.

4. B. M. Mithal and R. N. Shah, A Hand Book Of Cosmetics, 1st Edition, Vallabh Prakashan, Delhi (2000) Pp. 141-142.

5. Indian Pharmacopoeia, Government Of India, Ministry Of Health And Family Welfare, Published By, The Controller Of Publication, Edition, Vol. II (1996).

6. Kokate CK, Purohit AP and Gokhale SB. Pharmacognosy, Nirali Publications.2008; 42:10.41-10.46.

7. Yadav P, Harisha CR and Prajapati PK. Pharmacognostical And Physicochemical Evaluation of Agasti Leaf. Int J Ayurveda Res. 1(4):231–236.

8. Indian Pharmacopoeia- 1996, Ministry of Health and Family Welfare, Controller of Publications, Govt. Of India, Volume 1: A- 78.

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Received on 20.03.2023 Accepted on 15.04.2023

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2023; 14(1):29-44.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2023.00006