INTRODUCTION:

Cosmeceuticals focused on nanotechnology offer the benefit of product versatility and improved bioavailability of active ingredients, and the esthetic appeal of cosmeceutical products with sustained effects¹. Nevertheless, expanded use of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals has raised questions about the possible penetration of nanoparticles to human health through the skin and potential hazards. Nanotechnology is nano stuffs science.

The renowned physicist Richard Feynman thought of it for the first time. In 1959 he published his thoughts on the ability of the California Institute of Technology to manipulate individual atoms and molecules for the first time in the American physical society². Now Feynman has posed two challenges. The first one involved building a nano motor. The second task was to the the Britannica encyclopedia's letter size, so it could fit on a pin's head. This results in the greater amount of nano science work. Cosmeceuticals are seen as the fastest-growing segment of the personal care industry and the personal care sector is rising tremendously. S Given the huge benefits of nanoparticles, little is understood about the environmental and organisms short-term and long-term health consequences. Due to the toxicity identified and potential dangers of the nanomaterials, safety issues were raised. Nanocosmeceuticals offer a range of advantages. Namely, they provide controlled release of active substances by monitoring the release of drugs from carriers by various factors including physical or chemical component interaction, drug structure, polymer and additives, ratio, and preparation process³. These are used in hair care treatments such as hair loss prevention and hair loss control shampoo such as Identik Masque Floral Recovery, Origem hair recycling shampoo, and Nirvel hair loss control. Nanocosmeceuticals for example, Allure Parfum and Allure Eau Parfum spray by Chanel make the fragrances last longer. They make the formulas for skin care more effective and improve the efficacy of sunscreens by enhancing their UV safety⁴. The surface area is increased by having very small particle size which allows the active ingredients to be transported into the skin. Occlusion provides the enhancement in the penetration and skin hydration is increased. Cosmeceuticals are more robust than traditional cosmetics and have high trapping efficiency and good sensorial properties. Most of the nanoparticles are suitable for delivery of both lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs. Nanomaterials are widely used to make antiwrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, skin whitening creams, hair repair shampoos, conditioners, and hair serums. As the law of nature, there are certain positive as well as negative aspects of each and everything in this universe. Here are some of the disadvantages associated with nanocosmeceuticals. Nanoparticles can become caused by the development of large numbers of oxygen species, oxidation stress, inflammation, DNA damage, proteins, and membranes. Few ultrafine nanomaterials such as carbon nanotubes, fullerenes based on carbon, TiO₂, copper nanoparticles, and silver nanoparticles are potentially toxic to human tissues and cells. It has been shown that titanium dioxide found in sunscreens causes damage to DNA, RNA and fats within cells. The regulatory agencies have not placed any stringent oversight on the approval and regulation of nanocosmeceuticals. Nanocosmeceuticals are also potentially hazardous to the climate. No clinical trials are needed for nanocosmeceuticals to be licensed, thus increasing a question about toxicity after use⁵.

1. Novel Nanocarriers for Cosmeceuticals:

a. Dendrimers:

Dendrimers are organic chemical entities with a structure similar to a semipolymeric branch. The branch terminals provide a rich source of surface functionalities for nanoparticles. Their measurements are exceedingly small and have diameters of between 2 and 10 nm. Dendrimers are an exciting new form of macromolecular architecture and an important component for treating varieties of skin conditions in the nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals market. L'Oreal, Unilever, and the Dow Chemical Company hold multiple patents for hair care, skin care, and nail care products for the application of dendrimers. A patent on cosmetic formulations containing carbosiloxanedendrimer claimed it could provide strong hair and/or skin water resistance, sebum resistance, glossiness, tactile sensation and/or adhesive properties⁶.

b. Gold Nanoparticles:

Nanogold or gold nanoparticles show varying sizes from 5 nm to 400 nm. Interparticle interactions and gold nanoparticle assembly play an significant role in determining their properties. We show different types including nanosphere, nanoshell, nanocluster, nanorod, nanostar, nanocube, branched, and nanotriangles. Resonance frequency is strongly affected by the shape, size, dielectric properties, and environmental conditions of gold nanoparticles. Owing to oxidation, the nanogoldcolor varies from red to purple, to gray, and almost black. Gold nanoparticles are naturally inert, highly stable, biocompatible, and noncytotoxic. Nanogold is very stable in liquid or dried form and is non-bleaching after staining on the membranes; inconjugated and non-conjugated form are also available. Because of their small size and large surface area, shape, and crystallinity, they have high drug-loading potential and can easily migrate into the target cell. Due to its strong antifungal and antibacterial properties, gold nanoparticles have been studied as a valuable material in cosmeceutical industries. These nanoparticles are used in a variety of cosmeceuticals such as cream, lotion, face pack, deodorant, cream anti-aging, etc. Gold is used by cosmetic giant firms such as L'Oreal and L'Core Paris. Nanoparticles for making more effective lotions and creams. Nanogold's key properties in beauty care consist of materials, namely enhancement of blood circulation, anti-inflammatory properties, antiseptic properties, improvisation of skin firmness and elasticity, delay of aging cycle, and vitalization of skin metabolism⁷.

c. Chitin nanofibrils:

A chitin nanofibril is a crystalline form of a natural polysaccharide obtained from a crustacean exoskeleton with a needle shaped structure and a range of 24-75 nm in size. This is quickly metabolized by our body's endogenous enzymes, and hence used in personal care goods. The effectiveness of chitin nanofibrils has been widely demonstrated in reducing skin wrinkling and enhancing the symptoms of ageing. It has been shown that chitin nanofibrils facilitate activity in wound healing by reducing hypertrophic scar formation⁸.

d. Nanocrystals:

Nanocrystals are aggregates composed of several hundred to thousands of atoms that combine into a cluster and are in the 10–400 nm size range used to deliver poorly soluble active substances. In 2000 Juvena first appeared in the cosmeceutical market with the drug Juvedical having rutin. In a test it was found that a nocrystal formulation of the original rutin molecule possesses 500 times higher bioactivity compared to the water-soluble rutinglucoside (rutin with an attached glucose). A rutinnanosuspension with 5% rutin as non-resolved nanocrystals was applied to the skin of human volunteers, compared to a 5 percent water-soluble rutinglucoside solution with respect to skin photoprotection. The solubility of rutin in the aqueous nanosuspension was 500 times lower than in the water-soluble equivalent. It was observed that, despite the 500-fold lower concentration of dissolved rutin in the water phase of the nanocrystal suspension, the nanosuspension was about 25% more effective in photoprotection and the concentration of active substances formulated as nanocrystals in the skin was much higher compared to water-soluble derivatives or in normal powder form using active substances⁹.

e. Liposomes:

Liposomes are spherical vesicles that have at least one bilayer of the lipids. The liposome may be used as a vehicle for the nutrient and pharmaceutical drug administration. Liposomes are often made up of phospholipids, especially phosphatidylcholine, although other lipids such as egg phosphatidyl ethanolamine can also be included as long as they are consistent with lipid bilayer structure. The lipid bilayer of liposomes can be combined with other bilayers which further improves the release of its contents, making them useful for applications in cosmetic delivery. The simple preparation process, increased absorption by derma of active ingredients and continuous flow of agents into the cells over a constant period of time make them suitable for cosmetic applications. Transferosomes, niosomes and ethosomes are the vesicles other than liposomes that help to increase substance penetration in the dermal region¹⁰.

f. Nanoemulsions:

Nanoemulsions are seen as the most sophisticated cosmetic nanoparticulate device. These are also referred to as sub-micron emulsions (SMEs) and are systems with a uniform and extremely small droplet size (20-500 nm), optically transparent or translucent and low viscosity resulting in excellent diffusion. They are commonly used as a tool for the managed distribution of cosmeceutical products, such as lotions, shampoos, nail enamels, conditioners and hair serums. Their wide use is due to their intrinsic properties such as durability, rapid penetration, texture, and hydration. Korres' Red Vine Hair Sun safety is one of the many nanoemulsion cosmetics products available. A lot of work has been performed recently for the manufacture of aqueous-based nail lacquers. Yamazaki and team have created a novel nitrocellulose based W / O emulsion nail enamel, which promises to protect and hold the nails in a fine condition. French corporation L'Oreal holds a variety of patents on nanoemulsion-based technologies¹¹.

g. Fullerenes:

For antioxidant properties, carbon fullerenes have been used in a variety of cosmetic items; thus known for use in the formulation of cosmeceutical products for skin rejuvenation. Fullerenes, like other carbon allotropes, are extremely hydrophobic and this insolubility in aqueous solutions initially restricted their usefulness, but the use of surfactants or surface alterations has increased their ability to solubilize in aqueous media and raised awareness of their possible cosmeceutical applications. In 2005 Radical Sponge – the first fullerene-based cosmetic in the world was introduced. Inui et al. measured fullerene 's therapeutic effectiveness in the treatment of acne vulgaris. They developed a Lipo Fullerene gel that decreased the number of inflammatory lesions by 23 per cent and 38% respectively after 4 and 8 w¹².

h. Nanoemulsions:

i. Insoluble, mineral-based nanoparticles:

The mineral UV filters, commonly used to elevate their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) in sun-blocking formulations, form a visible pigmented film on the skin surface. The man-sized oxides currently available, such as titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) help to avoid this issue. TiO2 can most easily spread UV radiation in the range of 65-130 nm, while in the case of ZnO, the most beneficial scale is between 20-30 nm. The use of these components in sunscreens is advantageous due to their ability to boost the SPF; greater UV defense range; and intrinsic non-irritating character. These properties of the nanoformulations eventually contribute to greater acceptance of the industry. The first sunscreen containing TiO₂ nanoparticles was introduced in 1989, while the nano-formed ZnO product was launched in 1991¹⁴.

j. Cubosomes:

Cubosomes are nanosized liquid crystals, made in definite amounts of other amphiphilic lipids also known as biocompatible drug delivery carriers. Specific characteristics such as thermodynamic stability, bioadhesiveness, the capacity to encapsulate hydrophilic, hydrophobic and amphiphilic compounds, cubosomes are considered to provide vehicles for different routes of administration. They are considered an enticing choice both in cosmetics and in the distribution of medications¹⁵.

k. Solid lipid nanoparticles:

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are an revolutionary delivery device for cosmetic active ingredients and medications. They are made up of biodegradable physiological lipids and stabilizers commonly accepted as healthy (GRAS). Solid lipid nanoparticles can prevent debasement of the shielded compounds, used for the controlled delivery of cosmetic ingredients over a prolonged period of time, and have been found to increase the penetration of fluid mixes into the stratum corneum¹⁶.

l. Hydrogels:

The term hydrogel essentially deals with the three-dimensional structures of the network that are derived from a class of synthetic and/or natural polymers that have the characteristic of absorbing and retaining sufficiently water. The structure of the hydrogel is generated by the hydrophilic groups present in a polymeric net. Their property can be changed to avoid the damage¹⁷.

2. Major Classes of Nanocosmeceuticals:

a. Sunscreen:

It is Also known as sunblock, sunscreen is a lotion, spray, gel, foam (such as an expanded foam lotion or whipped lotion), stick or other topical product that absorbs or reflects a number of sun ultraviolet ( UV) radiation and thus helps to protect against sunburn. According to the mode of action, sunblocks can also be divided into two sections: physical sunscreens (i.e. zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which stay on the surface of the skin and primarily redirect the sunlight) or chemical sunscreens (i.e. UV organic filters which absorb UV light)¹⁸.

b. Moisturizer:

Moisturizer is sold as lotions, creams, ointments, bath oils or soap replacements. The most powerful emollient being petrolatum. In addition, emollient cosmetics can contain antioxidants, ceramides, emulsifiers, fragrances, moisturizers, enhancers of penetration, preservatives and solvents. Some drugs are advertised as having effects on anti-wrinkle and skin enhancement. Many plant and animal extracts, with little empirical evidence, have been claimed to impart the skin benefits. Humectant is the substance that has properties which attract water. A main humectant community is the alpha hydroxyl acids. Certain compounds that are used include urea, glycerin, propylene glycol etc¹⁹.

c. Hair care:

Hair care is that the general term for grooming and cosmetology encompasses the hair that develops from the human scalp, and to a lesser degree facial, pubic and other specific body hair. Hair care procedures may differ depending on the culture of the person and also the physical characteristics of one's hair, Hair may be colored, trimmed, shaved, plucked or otherwise extracted with waxing, sugaring and threading treatments. Hair care facilities are primarily available in salons, barber shops and day spas and some items are also available for home use. Hair cosmetics can be divided into two, those that work on the exocuticulum (shampoo, conditioner, serum, hair spray, waxes, gels) and those that work on the cortex (hair color, bleaching agent)²⁰.

d. Lip Balm:

The primary function of balm is to provide the lip surface with an occlusive coating for sealing wetness in the lips and protecting them from external exposure. By taking wetness away from the body, dry air, cold temp, and wind both have a drying effect on skin. Lips are considerably fragile because the skin is so thin, and so they are always the first to show signs of dryness. Occlusive materials such as waxes and petroleum jelly prevent loss of moisture and maintain lip comfort whereas flavorings, colorants, sunscreens and numerous medicinal products offer additional, specific benefits. Lip balm can be applied wherever a finger is used to apply it to the lips, or it can be applied directly from a lipstick-style tube. Charles Browne Fleet initially marketed the lip balm in the 1880s although its origins can be traced back to earwax²¹.

e. Nail care:

The other class that falls under cosmeceuticals is nair treatment. Nailpaints made from nanotechnology technique have the advantage of improving the durability and fast drying. Caring about your fingernails and toenails. Most nail issues are due to inadequate nail treatment. Following guidelines for preserving nail safety include keeping nails clean and dry to prevent bacteria and other infectious organisms from clustered under the nails, cutting nails straight across with only minor rounding at the tip, using a fine-textured file to keep nails smooth and snag-free²².

f. Skin cleanser:

Skin is roofed with the hydrolipid film, which depends entirely on the body location, contains the secretion from the oleaginous glands. The term cleanser refers to a product which purifies or removes dirt or other substances from the skin. Cleansers that have active ingredients are more appropriate to prevent breakouts in greasy bodies. These can overdry and irritate dry skin however, this can cause the skin to look and feel worse. Dehydrated skin will require a creamy cleanser of the lotion type. These are typically too mild to be effective on oily or even normal skin, but much less cleansing power is required on dry skin. Picking an alcohol-free cleanser for use on dry, irritated, or dehydrated skin may be a smart idea²³.

3. Safety Requirements:

Manufacturers using cosmetic nanotechnology face a demanding future from both the consumer and the regulatory perspective. Prominent research bodies such as the Royal Society, the US Food and Drug Administration warn that nanocosmetics' safety risk factors require a thorough analysis before the product is marketed. However there are no strict health requirements as there is an rise in nano-cosmetic products. The new recast of the EU Cosmetics Directive was approved by the European Parliament, bringing nanomaterials into EU legislation. The new legislation, as demanded by the European Parliament, establishes a safety evaluation protocol for all goods containing nanomaterials which may result in a substance being banned if there is a risk to human health²⁴.

4. Characterization methods for safety assessment of nanoparticles in cosmetics:

Nanomaterials characteristics may require a new test method to determine the risks that they are causing. The following are the major parameters which are evaluated for the safety of nanomaterials:

a. Physico-chemical properties:

It is important to analyze physical properties such as form, thickness, surface area, solubility, density, size distribution, etc., and chemical properties such as molecular structure, nanomaterial composition, phase identification, surface chemistry, hydrophilicity, or lipophilicity.

b. Microscopic techniques:

Useful details from the in vitro experiments can be obtained by microscopic post-treatment examination of the skin²⁵.

5. Recent Advancesin Cosmeceuticals:

Nanotechnology production has become a very important segment for ancient industries due to the growing demand from consumers for better goods. USFDA recently released a paper for skin care products on an Import Warning 66-38. That is because on the market there are various skin care items that claim to regulate the aging process through the items. According to USFDA, a claim such as "molecules absorb and extend, exerting upward pressure to lift wrinkles upward" may be a claim to equate internal structural change that usually contributes to a drug becoming a commodity²⁶. On cosmetic labeling, the FDA has addressed such arguments as unlawful. The law jointly requires that all cosmetics and sunscreens sold using nanoparticles can be tested for health purposes one by one. Cosmetic product containing nanomaterials should be reported to the Commission by electronic means, including information on definition, type, quantity, pharmacology profile, safety data and predictable conditions of exposure. Such notification will occur within six months of the putting on the market of a cosmetic product containing nanomaterials. Many cosmeceuticals change the biochemical processes in the skin, but manufacturers skip clinical trials and make the specific statements that their drugs are not subject to FDA's high-priced and lengthy approval process²⁷.

CONCLUSION:

In the cosmetic area, nanoparticles are becoming a phenomenon in different product segments. This nanotechnology is being applied by numerous multinational and local brands as angroundbreaking approach to offering their cosmetic products a high quality and efficacy. Cosmeceutical is the healthcare industry's new growing category, and is defined as a cosmetic product with drug-like practices, and over the years, use has increased. Nanotechnology plays a very important role within the cosmeceutical area. Nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals give numerous advantages such as increasing the drug's bioavailability and thus also prolonging the impact of cosmetics. Cosmeceuticals are the fastest growing segment of the personal care industry, and a variety of topical cosmeceutical treatments have come into common use for conditions such as photoaging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and hair loss. Nanotechnology has played an important part in the cosmeceutical arena. Researchers have been at the center of several developments using modern methods for manipulating matter at an atomic or molecular level, opening up new perspectives for the future of the cosmeceutical industry. Cosmeceuticals focused on nanotechnology offer the benefit of product versatility and improved bioavailability of active ingredients, and the esthetic appeal of cosmeceutical products with sustained effects. Nevertheless, expanded use of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals has raised questions about the possible penetration of nanoparticles to human health through the skin and potential hazards.

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Received on 06.07.2020 Accepted on 08.09.2020

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2020; 11(2):83-88.

DOI: 10.5958/2321-5844.2020.00015.1