Cosmetics:

cosmetics are the external preparation meant for to apply on external part of the body i.e. nails ,skin ,hair for colouring ,covering ,softening ,cleaning and nourishing ,wavining ,setting ,etc.

Nails Lacquers /Paints /Enamels /Varnish :

This is viscous preparation intended to decorate nails of finger and toes

Properties:

1. It should be harmful to the skin and nails.

2. It should be convenient and easy to apply.

3. It should be stable on storage.

4. It should be form satisfactory film on nails.

Essential ingredients of nails enamels:

1. Film formers :

2. Resins

3. Solvents

4. Plasticizers

5. Pigments

6. Suspending agents

Film formers:

· Film should be hard and water proof

· It should resist abrasion

· Examples : Cellulose acetate ,Cellulose acetate butylate ,Ethyl cellulose ,Nitrocellulose

· Two types of Nitrocellulose :

1. RS: It contain the 11.2 to 12.8 % of nitrogen and soluble in ester, ketenes and glycol ethers.

2. SS: 10.7 to 11.2 % nitrogen and soluble mixture of alcohol and toluene.

Resins:

· It should be provides hardness and gloss.

· It should be help in reducing the tendency of Nitrocellulose to shrink

· It should be give good luster to nail varnish films

· Examples: Santolites MHP (hardness of film) Santolite MS 80% ( Flexibility and gloss)

Natural Resins: Shellac, benzoin, damnar, Sandaroic and ester group.Resin is reported because the allergy, it is now replaced with polyester resins or an oil free alkyl resins based on polyol dibasic acid esters.

Solvents:

· Responsible for brush ability and for regularizing the drying time

· Solvents are normally volatile organic liquids that combine all the ingredients of lacquer and make a homogenous viscous preparation

· To dissolve non volatile lacquer constituents

· The BP also influences the viscosity of the lacquer solution, the lower the BP the lower too viscosity of the resultant solution and hence better covering power. A high BP solvents will usually give a brighter film than low BP solvents

· Ester and ketones are the real solvents of the film forming ingredients- nitrocellulose.Examples: n- butylacetate (BP-110 ⁰C – 130 ⁰C), Ethyl acetate (BP- 75- 83 ⁰C), Amylacetate (BP- 120-150 ⁰C)

· To rapid rate of evaporation cause the poor flow of enamel in uneven and stricky applications

· The solvent can be placed into three inter related categories

· Active solvents

· Coulpers

· Diluents

Plasticizers:

1. Non volatile liquids whose main function is to reduce the hardness of enamel films and to confer flexibility.

2. Types :solvent plasticizers Non solvent platicizer Amount of nail lacquers varies wildly and may vary from about 25 to 50 %

3. Examples: Dibutyl phthalate, tributylpthalaet, triethyl citrate etc.

Pigments:

1. Inorganic pigments Example: Titanium dioxide, Red iron oxide, Iron Blue etc.

2. Used in color lacquers.

Suspending agents:

1. Insoluble Pigments and iridescent materials have tendency to settle Example : Bentonite, Stearlalkonium hectorite

Formulation:

· To develop suitable nail lacquer all the ingredients must be properly balanced

· Must not develop the blush or clouldy

Formula

1. Nitrocelluose (1/2 Sec) 10%

2. Ethyl acetate 50%

3. Butyl acetate 20%

4. Diethyl Phthalate 15%

5. Camphor 4.5%

6. Colour (Dye) 0.5%

Manufacturing of nail lacquers:

Add 75% of the solvent and whole of the diluents in a mixer. Mix well with agitation

Add nitrocellulose while agitating

Add resin and plasticizers and remaining of the solvent

Stirr till dissolved

Check viscosity

Clarify by filtration

Add colours

Quality control and Evaluation:

1. Viscosity – Thixotropy relationship

2. Gloss

3. Solid content

4. Colour matching with lab standards

5. Drying rate and brushability

6. Test of setting and adhesion.

CONCLUSION:

To Manufacture the qualitative Nail lacquers we required key ingradients, knowledge of solvents and quality control parameters

REFERENCES:

1 Martin M. Rieger, “Harry’s Cosmeticology”, Chemical publishing, Co. Inc. New York, 8^th ed. 2000, page no. -72

2 Sanju Nandu, Arun Nandu and Roop K Khar, “ Cosmetic Technology, Birla publication, Pvt. Ltd., 1^st ed. 2006-07, Page no.- 317-324

3 Marc Paye and Andre o. Barel, Handbook of cosmetic science and technology, inform health care publication, 1^st Indian ed. 2008. Page no. 581-582

4 Swarnalata Saraf and Shailendra Saraf, Cosmetics. A practical manual, Pharmaceutical Press Publication, 2^nd ed. 2001. Page no. 1-10.

Received on 30.01.2013 Accepted on 12.03.2013

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 4(1): July –Dec. 2013 page 59-60