INTRODUCTION:

Now a day’s cosmetics are considered to be essential commodities of life. Several herbs have been mentioned in ayurveda which can be used to obtained healthy skin and glowing complexion. Ayurvedic literature describes over 200 herbs, minerals and fats to maintain and enhance the health and beauty of skin. Today there is once again a revival of preference for natural products, and in recent years there is great upsurge of Indian herbs. Ayurvedic cosmetics are in use and practice since thousands of years in India, without any side effect and are well proven and documented. ^[3]

The lotus plant has its roots firmly in the mud and sends out long stems to which their leaves are attached. The leaves are sometimes, and flowers always, raised above the water surface. The beautiful and fragrant flower opens in the morning and petals fall in the afternoon. The fruits are a conical pod with seeds contained in holes in the pod. Nucifera- means "having hard fruit". When the seeds are ripe, they become loose in the pod. The pod then tips down towards the water, releasing the seeds. ^[6]

Lotus is a herb having a range of the cosmetic activities with it, it is different parts are used in the formulation of various skin care cosmetics like anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, as a skin whitener etc. Whole plant is having the medicinal activities, its different parts used are flower, seeds, roots, stem, stigma etc.

Botanical description:

Botanical Name(s): Nelumbo nucifera

Family Name: Nelumbonaceae

Kingdom: Plantae

Division: Magnoliophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Proteales

Family: Nelumbonaceae

Genus: Nelumbo

Species: N.nucifera

Popular Name(s): Sacred Water Lotus, Sacred Water Lilly, Pink Lotus, Nelumbo Lutea, Bean of India

Parts used: Petals, seeds, leaves, roots

Habitat: Found in ponds and swamps^[2]

An aquatic perennial, Indian lotus is the national flower of India and Vietnam. The roots of the plant are firmly planted in the soil of the pond or river bottom. The leaves can be seen floating on the top of the water surface. Lotus grows to a height of about 150 cm, with a 3-meter horizontal spread. The leaves can be as large as 60 cm in diameter, while the showy flowers can be up to 20 cm in diameter. The fruits are a conical pod, with seeds contained in holes in the pod. The lotus flower can be seen in hues of pink and white. It is native to Greater India and commonly cultivated in water gardens. It is known as kamala, svetakamala and pankaj in Sanskrit; kanwal in Hindi; kanwala in Unani; tamara in Malayalam; tamarai in Tamil; nelumbo in French; indische lotosblume in German and nilufer in Persian. Native to the Asian subcontinent from Persina to China and Japan.^[6]

Different varieties of lotus:

The genera lotus flower is a type of water lily belonging to the Nymphaea and Nelumbo.

1] White lotus:

The Egyptian white lotus flower (Nymphaea lotus) is austere and beautiful in its simplicity. Also known as the Tiger Lotus or Egyptian White Water Lily, this plant grows in various parts of East Africa and Southeast Asia. It has rounded petals and tooth-edged leaves, grows in shallow waters, blooms at night, and remains open until midday.

2] Blue lotus:

The smaller blue lotus flower (Nymphaea caerulea) is native to the Nile. Also known as the Egyptian Blue Water Lily, the lotus has narrow, pointed petals, and floating leaves with smooth edges. It opens its flowers in the morning and closes at dusk.

3] Red or pink lotus:

The red or pink lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is the national flower of India, and is commonly known as the Indian lotus or sacred lotus. Found in southern Asia, this lotus flower was introduced into Egypt about 2,500 years ago but is no longer found in the Nile region. Its flowers are usually found on thick stems rising several centimetres above the water.

4] Yellow lotus:

The yellow lotus (Nelumbo lutea) is native to California and throughout the eastern half of the U.S. and Canada. It is also known as the American lotus or Water-chinquapin. The pale yellow scented blossoms are smaller than those of the sacred lotus.^[7]

Chemical constituents:

It contains, (+)- nuciferine, romerin, nerenyuferin, neferine, lotusine, isoliensinine, quercitin, flavonoids, isoquercitin, leukodelphinidin, myristic acid, palmatic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, protein, fat, carbohydrate, starch, moisture, sucrose, calcium, phosphorus, iron, ascorbic acid, aspirin, Vitamin B, Vitamin C,anthocynins, Vitamin E.

Reported activities:

Rhizomes or Leaves:

are used with other herbs to treat sunstroke, fever, diarrhoea, dysentery, dizziness, vomiting of blood, haemorrhoids. The whole plant is used as an antidote to mushroom poisoning.

Seeds:

The embryonic seeds for high fever, cholera (Chinese), nervous disorders and insomnia; the seeds to stop vomiting, relieve indigestion and diarrhoea or just as a tonic.

Flowers:

Pounded petals for syphilis; for cosmetic unguents (Java); the flower stalk with other herbs to treat bleeding from the uterus.

Fruit:

The pods contain alkaloids that stop bleeding.^[6]

Lotus is also helpful in controlling the burning sensation due to its cold potency, improving the skin texture and complexion, improves mental condition and regularizes the peristaltic movements, treats urine related problems and maintains the body’s normal temperature, leaf paste is applied to the body in case of fever and inflammatory skin conditions, young leaves of lotus are taken with sugar to treat rectal prolapsed, stamens are mixed with jaggery and ghee to treat haemorrhoids, leaves and flowers are useful in many bleeding disorder, Lotus flowers are prescribed to promote conception, The petals alleviate thirst and inflammations while the seeds are powdered and mixed with honey to treat cough, Lotus when taken with ghee, milk and gold, is considered a general tonic to promote strength, virility and intellect, Lotus petals are used for garnishing and the leaves are used for wrapping food. stamens are dried and made into a fragrant herbal tea.^[1]

Uses of lotus in cosmetic:

Lotus is a herb having various activities on skin, its major role is anti-wrinkle and skin whiteliser .It also act as a anti-acne due to its antibacterial property, it reduces the heat generated on skin in acne due to its cooling effect. It is reported to reduce the stress and gives the relaxing and calming effect on skin. It reduces the pigmentation of skin and improves complexion. Gives soothing and emollient activity, it improves the texture of skin.

Mode of action on skin:

There are various active ingredients present in Nelumbo nucifera which gives different mode of action on skin. Skin whitelising property is due to the inhibition of tyrosinase present in leaf, flower and seed extract. Antiwrinkle activity is due to the inhibition of elastase and DOPA oxidase inhibition. The extract of the flower is having antiradical activity which prevents tanning of the skin due to harmful ultraviolate rays.

Root extract of lotus is having favourable effect on inhibiting of CGRP [calcitonin gene related peptide] which is a neurotransmitter involved in skin reactivity. CGRP stimulates IL-8 giving inflammation due to irradiation of skin by UV rays which is prevented by lotus extract. Extract of lotus inhibit melanin synthesis as it blocks the tyrosinase which is key enzyme in the melanogenesis.^[4,5]

Analysis:

Analysis of chemical constituents of lotus can be carried out by using various spectrophotometric methods these includes HPLC, UV/VIS.

CONCLUSION:

Lotus is a widely used herb in cosmetics. It has been reported to possess anti-wrinkle, whitiliser, anti-acne, coolant, and calming, relaxing properties. Some of the marketed products containing lotus and its parts or extracts are: Veet hair removal gel, AHAVA Mineral Botanic Body Lotion, Clarisonic daily acne cleanser, various Neutrogena products, Lotus sunscreen, etc. It has proved itself time and again to be a highly beneficial and useful herb. This article gives the necessary data on lotus. Its use is encouraged and even if it has been extensively used, it still offers a wide scope of research exploration.

REFERENCES:

1. Duke JA. Handbook of medicinal herbs. Printed by CRC press I.I.C, United States of. America.2002;2^nd ed: pp.473.

2. Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia of India. Published by government of India ministry of health and family welfare, department of Ayush.1995; 2(1):pp.69.

3. Kumar S, Palbag S, Mourya S, Kumar D.Skin care in Ayurveda: A Lliterary Rreview. International Research Journal Of Pharmacy. 4(3);2013:1-3.

4. Phase behaviour and formulation of palm oil esters o/w nanoemulsion stabilized by hydrocolloid gums for cosmeceuticals application. Nat Prod Resour Repos. 2(4); 2011:178-179.

5. Lee JY, Im KR , Yoon KS.Whitening effect of natural plants extracts by inhibition of alfa–glucosidase and melanogenesis. Available from www.takad. org.tr/tr/pdf/072%20 Lee pdf.

6. Indian Lotus. Available from :http:// www.naturia.per.sg / buloh / plants / lotus.htm.

7. Lotus Flower online. Available from : http:// www. lotus floweronline.net/ lotus_flower_types. html.

Received on 22.10.2013 Accepted on 15.12.2013

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 4(1): July –Dec. 2013 page 81-83