INTRODUCTION:

Now a day Herbal cosmetics are widely used when compared to synthetic cosmetics. Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics” or “natural cosmetics”¹. The demand of herbal medicines is increasing rapidly due to their lack of side effects². Cosmetic products are used to protect exogenous and endogenous harmful agents and enhance the beauty and attractiveness of skin. Cosmetics are developed to reduce wrinkles, fight acne and to control oil secretion. For various types of skin ailments formulations like skin protective, sunscreen, antiacne, antiwrinkle and antiaging are designed using varieties of materials, either natural or synthetic.

All cosmetic products containing water in combination with oils and polysaccharides or proteins need preservation since they represent an ideal base for germ growth. The 7^th amendment of the Cosmetic Guideline 76/768/EEC prescribes declaration of the minimum durability of cosmetics if this is less than 30 months³. Plant extracts are different in several respects from purified therapeutic agents. Firstly, they are more dilute than the pure chemicals that are familiar to us; secondly herbs often contain additional active principles that may be closely related both chemically and therapeutically to the constituent primarily responsible for its effects⁴.

The polyherbal cosmetic formulations have been recommended for the management of skin properties for a long time and their effects are also well accepted in the community of countries like India, Pakistan, China and Brazil⁵. The selected herbs described in the present investigation have been also utilized medicinally in crude extracts in traditional Indian and Chinese medicine systems to treat various skin ailments. The plants such as Daucus carota and Ocimum sanctum has selected for formulation of cream.

Daucus carota contain abundant amount of Vitamin A and Vitamin C. Vitamin A also acts as a very good anti-oxidant which slows down the process of aging. Vitamin C produces collagen in the body which is an essential protein for making our skin elastic. It also prevents wrinkles on the skin⁶. The leaves of Ocimum sanctum contain ursolic acid, apigenin and luteolin. Some other main chemical constituents of Tulsi are Oleanolic acid, Rosmarinic acid, Eugenol, Carvacrol, Linalool, and β-caryophyllene⁷. Tulsi is mostly used for medicinal purposes and in herbal cosmetics, and is widely used in skin preparations due to its anti-bacterial activity and Decrease dark spots. Tulsi detoxifies the blood, and flushes out toxins from the body. Tulsi contains antioxidants, which neutralize the harmful effects of free radicals, and thus arrests aging⁸. The purpose of this study was to develop herbal cosmetic cream by mixing the extracts of Daucus carota and Ocimum sanctum to produce multipurpose effect on skin such as fairness, sunscreen, antiaging and antiwrinkle properties.

MATERIAL AND METHODS:

Preparation of extracts:

Air dried and coarsely powdered (500 gm) of Ocimum sanctum and Daucus carota were placed in soxhlet extractor separately, using petroleum ether and then successively with ethanol. The extracts were then concentrated to dryness under reduced pressure and controlled temperature, respectively and they were preserved in a refrigerator.

Cream formulation:

Oil in water (O/W) emulsion-based cream (semisolid formulation) was formulated. The emulsifier (stearic acid) and other oil soluble components (Cetyl alcohol, almond oil) were dissolved in the oil phase (Part A) and heated to 75° C. The preservatives and other water soluble components such as methyl paraban, propyl paraban, triethanolamine, propylene glycol, ethanol extract of Ocimum sanctum and Daucus carota were dissolved in the aqueous phase (Part B) and heated to 75° C. After heating, the aqueous phase was added in portions to the oil phase with continuous stirring until cooling of emulsifier took place. The formula for the cream is given in table 1.

Table 1: Composition of cream

S. No.	Ingredients	Formula % w/w
S. No.	Ingredients	F1	F2	F3
1	Ethanol extract of Daucus carota	0.50	0.70	0.30
2	Ethanol extract of Ocimum sanctum	0.50	0.30	0.70
4	Stearic acid	6	6	6
5	Cetyl alcohol	4	4	4
6	Almond oil	4	4	4
7	Glycerol	3	3	3
8	Methyl paraban	0.02	0.02	0.02
9	Triethanolamine	qs	qs	qs
10	Water, qs, 100	qs	qs	qs

Evaluation of cream

pH of the Cream:

The pH meter was calibrated using standard buffer solution. About 0.5 g of the cream was weighed and dissolved in 50.0 ml of distilled water and its pH was measured.

Viscosity:

Viscosity of the formulation was determined by Brookfield

Viscometer at 100 rpm, using spindle no 7.

Dye test:

The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream. Place a drop of the cream on a microscopic slide covers it with a cover slip, and examines it under a microscope. If the disperse globules appear red the ground colourless. The cream is o/w type. The reverse condition occurs in w/o type cream i.e. the disperse globules appear colourless in the red ground.

Homogeneity:

The formulations were tested for the homogeneity by visual appearance and by touch.

Appearance:

The appearance of the cream was judged by its color, pearlscence and roughness and graded.

After feel:

Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was checked.

Type of smear:

After application of cream, the type of film or smear formed on the skin were checked.

Removal:

The ease of removal of the cream applied was examined by washing the applied part with tap water.

Acid value:

Take 10 gm of substance dissolved in accurately weighed, in 50 ml mixture of equal volume of alcohol and solvent ether, the flask was connected to reflux condenser and slowly heated, until sample was dissolved completely, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated with 0.1N NaOH, until faintly pink color appears after shaking for 30 seconds.

Acid value = n*5.61/w

n = the number of ml of NaOH required.

w = the weigh of substance.

Saponification value:

Introduce about 2 gm of substance refluxed with 25 ml of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH for 30 minutes, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated immediately, with 0.5 N HCL.

Saponification value = (b-a)*28.05/w

The volume in ml of titrant = a

The volume in ml of titrate = b

The weigh of substance in gm = w

Irritancy test:

Mark an area (1sq.cm) on the left hand dorsal surface. The cream was applied to the specified area and time was noted. Irritancy, erythema, edema, was checked if any for regular intervals up to 24 hrs and reported.

Accelerated stability testing:

Accelerated stability testing of prepared formulations was conducted for 2 most stable formulations at room temperature, studied for 7 days. They were formulation number 4 and 5 at 40 ^oC ± 1 ^oC for 20 days. The formulations were kept both at room and elevated temperature and observed on 0^th, 5^th, 10^th, 15^th and 20^th day for the following parameters^4,9-11.

RESULTS:

pH of the Cream: The pH of the cream was found to be in range of 6.5 – 6.8 which is good for skin pH. All the formulations were shown pH nearer to skin required (Table 2).

Table 2: pH of cream base

Formulation	pH
F1	6.8
F2	6.5
F3	6.7

Viscosity: The viscosity of was cream was in the range of 27019 – 27023 cps which indicates that the cream is easily spreadable by small amounts of shear. But F1 and F2 shows good spreadable property than other formulations.

Table 3: Viscosity of Cream

Formulation	Viscosity (in cps)
F1	27019
F2	27023
F3	27021

Dye test: This dye confirm that all formulation were O/W type emulsion cream.

Acid value and Saponification value: The results of acid and saponification value of all formulation of cream are presented in table 4, and showed satisfactorily values.

Table 4: Test applied for acid value and saponification value

Parameter	Formula
Parameter	F1	F2	F3
Acid value	5.6	5.8	5.4
Saponification value	21.4	24.2	25.7

Irritancy test: The formulation F1, F2 and F3 shows no redness, edema, Inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin (Table 5).

Table 5: Type of adverse effect of formulations

Formulation	Irritant	Erythema	Edema
F1	NIL	NIL	NIL
F2	NIL	NIL	NIL
F3	NIL	NIL	NIL

Homogeneity: All formulations produce uniform distribution of extracts in cream. This was confirmed by visual appearance and by touch (Table 6).

Appearance: When formulation were kept for long time, it found that no change in colour of cream (Table 6).

After feel: Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was found (Table 6).

Type of smear: After application of cream, the type of smear formed on the skin were non greasy (Table 6).

Removal: The cream applied on skin was easily removed by washing with tap water (Table 6).

Rheological studies: Rheological behavior of the cream was studied and confirmed that the cream had pseudo plastic flow behavior. All the formulations showed no thixotropic (shear thinning) characteristics.

Table 6: Physical parameter of F1 and F2 cream on room and accelerated temperature

Days	Temperature	Formulation	Parameter
Days	Temperature	Formulation	pH	Homogenity	Appearance	Spreadility	After feel	Type of smear	Removal
0	RT	F1	6.6	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	RT	F2	6.5	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F1	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F2	6.6	*	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
5	RT	F1	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	RT	F2	6.5	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F1	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F2	6.5	*	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
10	RT	F1	6.6	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	RT	F2	6.6	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F1	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F2	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
15	RT	F1	6.5	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	RT	F2	6.7	*	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F1	6.6	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F2	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
20	RT	F1	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	RT	F2	6.5	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F1	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
	40 ºC	F2	6.4	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES

**: Good, *: Satisfactory, P: Pearlescent, E: Emollient, NG: Non greasy, ES: Easy, NCC: Not change in colour

DISCUSSION:

The herbal face cream was O/W type emulsion, hence can be easily washed with plane water that gives better customer compliance. Products formulated with phase inversion technique had produced finer internal phase and showed more physical stability in long storage condition. These formulations had almost constant pH, homogeneous, emollient, non-greasy and easily removed after the application. The stable formulations were safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic sensitization. Viscosity and shear time functions can help to analyse the processibility and material transport of the creams. The small extent of initial structure break observed in the creams, which is not followed by significant viscosity decrease, ensure good processibility.

The production of free radicals in the body causes oxidative stress leads to premature aging of the skin which is characterized by the rough skin textures and wrinkles. ß-carotene is the most abundant and most efficient precursor of vitamin A. ß-carotene is a radical scavenger, quenching singlet oxygen and free radicals without damage to cells and tissue, hence it used as UV protection of skin. ß-carotene are capable to increase cell turn-over and regeneration in the outer layers of the skin, making it effective for diseases and skin conditions related to epithelium damage. It also enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. In skin care products, ß -carotene is used for its antioxidant properties, its ability to protect the skin from sun damage, and its ability to help even the skin tone, deeming it an active anti-aging ingredient^1,13. It is reported that Daucus carota contain abundant amount of ß-carotene and Vitamin C, moreover Ocimum sanctum exhibited antioxidant activity. From above discussion it is assumed that ß-carotene containing plant as well as antioxidant activity producing plant can be used in face care cream. Hence both extracts of plants are good choice to use as ingredient in face cream. Our study indicated that the formulation F1 and F2 found to be more stable, while remaining formulations were not stable and resulted in breakdown of the emulsion when stored for long time. These formulations F1 and F2 had almost constant pH, homogeneous, emollient, non-greasy and easily removed after the application. The stable formulations were safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic sensitization.

CONCLUSIONS:

From above discussion it is concluded that on combining the extracts of Daucus carota and Ocimum sanctum in different ratio to get multipurpose effect such as whitening, antiwrinkle, antiaging and sunscreen effect on skin. As we know that it is not possible to increase the extent of efficiency of medicinal and cosmetic property of single plant extract, but by combining the different plant extracts it can be possible to increase the efficacy of extracts. In this regard, we mixed the extracts of Daucus carota and Ocimum sanctum to improve as well synergize the cosmetic properties of prepared products compare to individual extracts. These studies suggest that composition of extracts and base of cream of F1and F2 are more stable and safe; it may produce synergistic action.

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Received on 30.01.2013 Accepted on 12.03.2013

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 4(1): Jan. –June 2013 page 1-4