INTRODUCTION:

Today a new hot topic in the cosmetic industry is ‘cosmeceuticals’, which is the fastest growing segment of the natural personal care industry. The use of plant extracts in cosmetic formulation is increasing, mostly because of the poor image that animal-derived extracts have acquired during the past few years. This is due, in part, to news reports regarding bovine spongiform encephalitis. Some animal derived products need to be replaced, but synthetic chemicals cannot always do this well. Natural molecules derived from plant extracts offer a particularly exciting avenue for further research. Plant extracts, however, are often ill-defined as to the method of extraction, plant-to-solvent ratio and the content of active ingredients. Moreover, the stability of the colour, odour, transparency and/or active ingredients with time is also often a limiting factor. Plant extracts are different in several respects from purified therapeutic agents. Firstly, they are more dilute than the pure chemicals that are familiar to us; secondly herbs often contain additional active principles that may be closely related both chemically and therapeutically to the constituent primarily responsible for its effects^1-3.

The plant used in formulation was selected on the basis of scientifically reported property. The best cosmetic product must contain following properties antioxidant property, anti-inflammatory, antibiotic, whitening agent, moisturizing properties etc. As per this concern we select following plants Mangifera indica, Azadirachta indica, Coriandrum sativum, Psoralea corylifolia, Prunus amygdalus, Mentha arvensis and Daucus carota for the formulation of herbal cosmetic.

Mangifera indica leaves are claimed to possess antibiotic properties⁴ and the antibacterial property of Azadirachta indica leaves are reported⁵. Daucus carota⁶ contain abundant amount of Vitamin A and Vitamin C. Vitamin A also acts as a very good anti-oxidant which slows down the process of aging. Vitamin C produces collagen in the body which is an essential protein for making our skin elastic. It also prevents wrinkles on the skin. Moreover Prunus amygdalus is enriched with Vitamin E⁷. Mentha arvensis were used as cooling and soothing agent⁸, while remaining plants produce antioxidant activity^9-11. Therefore, an attempt has been made in this study to combine these plants in preparation of herbal cosmetic cream and to produce the synergistic effects on skin.

MATERIAL AND METHODS:

Preparation of extracts

Air dried and coarsely powdered (500 gm) of Mangifera indica leaves, Azadirachta indica leaves, Coriandrum sativum seed, Psoralea corylifolia seeds, Mentha arvensis leaves and Daucus carota were placed in soxhlet extractor separately, using petroleum ether and then successively with ethanol. The extracts were then concentrated to dryness under reduced pressure and controlled temperature, respectively and they were preserved in a refrigerator.

Preparation of cream base: Oil in water (O/W) emulsion-based cream (semisolid formulation) was formulated. The emulsifier (stearic acid) and other oil soluble components (Cetyl alcohol, almond oil) were dissolved in the oil phase (Part A) and heated to 75° C. The preservatives and other water soluble components (Methyl paraban, Propyl paraban, Triethanolamine, Propylene glycol) were dissolved in the aqueous phase (Part B) and heated to 75° C. After heating, the aqueous phase was added in portions to the oil phase with continuous stirring until cooling of emulsifier took place. The formula for the base is given in table 1.

Table 1: Composition of cream base

Ingredients	Formula % w/w
Ingredients	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6
Stearic acid	15	12	12	10	18	15
Cetyl alcohol	2	3	4	4	3	4
Almond oil	4	4	4	4	4	4
Glycerol	3	3	3	3	3	3
Methyl paraban	0.02	0.02	0.02	0.02	0.02	0.02
Triethanolamine	qs	qs	qs	qs	qs	qs
Water, qs, 100	qs	qs	qs	qs	qs	qs

Drug formulation: The appropriate base was selected from table and cream was formulated. The emulsifier (stearic acid) and other oil soluble components (Cetyl alcohol, almond oil) were dissolved in the oil phase (Part A) and heated to 75° C. The preservatives and other water soluble components (Methyl paraban, Propyl paraban, Triethanolamine, Propylene glycol, all extracts) were dissolved in the aqueous phase (Part B) and heated to 75° C. After heating, the aqueous phase was added in portions to the oil phase with continuous stirring until cooling of emulsifier took place. The composition of cream is given in table 2.

Table 2: pH of cream base

Formulation	pH
F1	6.8
F2	6.9
F3	6.7
F4	6.9
F5	6.6
F6	6.4

Evaluation of cream

pH of the Cream: The pH meter was calibrated using standard buffer solution. About 0.5g of the cream was weighed and dissolved in 50.0 ml of distilled water and its pH was measured.

Viscosity: Viscosity of the formulation was determined by Brookfield Viscometer at 100 rpm, using spindle no 7.

Dye test: The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream. Place a drop of the cream on a microscopic slide covers it with a cover slip, and examines it under a microscope. If the disperse globules appear red the ground colourless. The cream is o/w type. The reverse condition occurs in w/o type cream i.e. the disperse globules appear colourless in the red ground.

Homogeneity: The formulations were tested for the homogeneity by visual appearance and by touch.

Appearance: The appearance of the cream was judged by its color, pearlscence and roughness and graded.

After feel: Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was checked.

Type of smear: After application of cream, the type of film or smear formed on the skin were checked.

Removal: The ease of removal of the cream applied was examined by washing the applied part with tap water.

Acid value: Take 10 gm of substance dissolved in accurately weighed, in 50 ml mixture of equal volume of alcohol and solvent ether, the flask was connected to reflux condenser and slowly heated, until sample was dissolved completely, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated with 0.1N NaOH, until faintly pink color appears after shaking for 30 seconds.

Acid value = n*5.61/w

Where, n = the number of ml of NaOH required.

w = the weigh of substance.

Saponification value: Introduce about 2 gm of substance refluxed with 25 ml of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH for 30 minutes, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated immediately, with 0.5 N HCL.

Saponification value = (b-a)*28.05/w

Where, The volume in ml of titrant = a

The volume in ml of titrant =b

The weigh of substance in gm = w

Irritancy test: Mark an area (1sq.cm) on the left hand dorsal surface. The cream was applied to the specified area and time was noted. Irritancy, erythema, edema, was checked if any for regular intervals up to 24 hrs and reported.

Accelerated stability testing: Accelerated stability testing of prepared formulations was conducted for 2 most stable formulations at room temperature, studied for 7 days. They were formulation number 4 and 5 at 40 ^oC ± 1 ^oC for 20 days. The formulations were kept both at room and elevated temperature and observed on 0th, 5th, 10th, 15th and 20th day for the following parameters^12-18.

RESULTS:

pH of the Cream: The pH of the cream base was found to be in range of 6-7 which is good for skin pH. All the formulations of cream base were shown pH nearer to skin required (Table 2).

Viscosity: The viscosity of was cream was in the range of 27021-27053 cps which indicates spreadibilty of cream. In our study F₂, F₃ and F₄ depicted easily spreadable by small amounts of shear, while F₁, F₅ and F₆were not easily spreadable on skin. But F3 shows good spreadable property than other formulations.

Acid value and Saponification value: The results of acid value and saponification value of all formulation of cream base were presented in table 3, and showed satisfactorily values.

Table 3: Test applied for acid value and saponification value

Parameter	Formula
Parameter	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6
Acid value	5.7	5.8	5.7	6.1	5.9	5.8
Saponification value	26.3	26.2	25.3	27.1	26.3	26.4

Irritancy test: The formulation F3 shows no redness, edema, Inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin (Table 4).

Table 4: Type of Adverse effect of formulations

Formulation	Irritant	Erythema	Edema
F1	NIL	NIL	NIL
F2	NIL	NIL	NIL
F3	NIL	NIL	NIL
F4	NIL	NIL	NIL
F5	NIL	NIL	NIL
F6	NIL	NIL	NIL

Dye test: This dye confirms that all formulations were o/w type emulsion cream. But formulation (F3) shows more stable in o/w type emulsion. So here we select F3cream base for further study.

Homogeneity: All formulations produce uniform distribution of extracts in cream. This was confirmed by visual appearance and by touch (Table 5).

Appearance: When formulation were kept for long time, it found that no change in colour of cream (Table 5).

After feel: Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was found (Table 5).

Type of smear: After application of cream, the type of smear formed on the skin were non greasy (Table 5).

Removal: The cream applied on skin was easily removed by washing with tap water (Table 5).

Cream: From above study, the F3 base was selected for the preparation of herbal cream, and the composition of cream has illustrated on table 6. The physical evaluation and stability of herbal has shown in table 7, and results were considerable and acceptable.

DISCUSSION:

M. indica, A. indica, C. sativum, P. corylifolia, P. amygdalus, M. arvensis and D. carota are well known for its medicinal value in Indian traditional system of medicine and in ayurvedic preparations. The active constituents present in different extracts of plant parts will produce synergistic and also enhance beautifying property of cream. The herbal face cream was O/W type emulsion, hence can be easily washed with plane water that gives better customer compliance. There is a growing demand for herbal cosmetics in the world market and they are invaluable gifts of nature. Therefore, we tried to make an herbal face cream containing the extract of M. indica, A. indica, C. sativum, P. corylifolia, M. arvensis and D. carota in different concentration along with almond oil. Our study indicated that the base F3 found to be more stable, while remaining base were not stable and resulted in breakdown of the emulsion when stored for long time. So that base F3 was appropriate for development of herbal cream, hence we prepared herbal cream by mixing all the extract in this base. The pH of prepared cream was nearer skin pH, and cream produces homogeneous, emollient, non-greasy and easily removed properties after the application. The herbal cream was safe in respect to skin irritation and allergic sensitization. The prepared herbal face cream is intended for cosmeceutical use rather than as other cosmetic. These studies suggest that herbal face cream are more stable and also it may produce synergistic action.

Table 5: Physical parameter of F4 cream base on room and accelerated temperature

Days	Temperature	Parameter
Days	Temperature	pH	X₁	X₂	X₃	X₄	X₅	X₆
0	RT	6.9	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
0	40 ºC + 1 ºC	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
5	RT	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
5	40 ºC + 1 ºC	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
10	RT	6.6	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
10	40 ºC + 1 ºC	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
15	RT	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
15	40 ºC + 1 ºC	6.8	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
20	RT	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES
20	40 ºC + 1 ºC	6.7	**	NCC	**	E	NG	ES

X₁-Homogenity, X₂-Appearance, X₃-Spreadibility, X₄-After feel, X₅-Type of smear, X₆-Removal, **: Good, *: Satisfactory, E: Emollient, NG: Non greasy, ES: Easy, NCC: Not change in colour

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

The authors acknowledge to Director of Oriental College of Pharmacy, Bhopal (M.P.), India, for providing all the facilities and successfully completion of work.

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Received on 07.01.2012 Accepted on 20.02.2012

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 3(1): Jan. –June 2012 page 16-19

Ingredients	Formulation (% w/w)
Ethanol extract of D. carota	0.75
Ethanol extract of M. indica	0.20
Ethanol extract of A. indica	0.30
Ethanol extract of C. sativum	0.25
Ethanol extract of P. corylifolia	0.30
Ethanol extract of M. arvensis	0.20
Stearic acid	12
Cetyl alcohol	4
Almond oil	4
Glycerol	3
Methyl paraban	0.02
Triethanolamine	qs
Water, qs, 100	qs

Formulation	pH	Acid value	Saponification value	Adverse effect	Physical Parameter
					Room Temperature	Accelerated Temperature
Herbal cream	6.8	5.9	26.1	NIL	Acceptable	Acceptable